A rainbow of color comes to fine jewelry

Now that designers have managed to embellish every inch of the body with diamond ear jackets, finger chains, handbars, knuckle rings and the like, the new frontier for expression in fine jewelry is color.

Sept. 5, 2014 1 PM PT

Cartier "Paris Nouvelle Vague" 18-karat white gold ring with diamonds, pink tourmalines, blue chalcedonies, aquamarines and garnets.

[Up close | Jewelry]

Color me fine

A rainbow of color comes to fine jewelry

Amélie Garreau / Cartier

Now that designers have managed to embellish every inch of the body with diamond ear jackets, finger chains, handbars, knuckle rings and the like, the new frontier for expression in fine jewelry is color.

Using stones in multicolored hues, including rubies, sapphires and emeralds — all on the same piece — can create a variety of effects. Bulgari's Mvsa collection chain-link and candy-colored gem bracelet inspired by ancient Greece is classically elegant; Cartier's Paris Nouvelle Vague cocktail ring with diamond, pink tourmaline, blue chalcedony, aquamarine and garnet cabochons is quite playful; and Tiffany & Co.'s gold drop earrings with orange carnelian and blue chalcedony zigzag designs are sublimely modern.

Marie-Hélène de Taillac

Marie-Hélène de Taillac Blondie's Chain 22-karat gold earrings with multicolored tourmaline, sapphire, fire opals and peridot.

Tiffany & Co

Tiffany T 18 karat-gold drop earrings with orange carnelian and blue chalcedony.

On Pippa Small's talisman-like, chunky gold Navaratna ring, colored stones represent the nine planets of the solar system, and Katherine Jetter uses her favorite opals with tsavorites and orange carnelian briolettes for a naturalistic effect on her Hanging Vine earrings.

Pippa Small

Pippa Small Navratana ring in 18-karat gold with gems representing the nine planets: ruby, diamond, pearl, coral, yellow sapphire, emerald, hessonite, blue sapphire and cat's eye.

Bulgari

Bulgari Mvsa 18-karat pink gold bracelet with colored gemstones and pave diamonds.

Irene Neuwirth

Irene Neuwirth one-of-a-kind 18-karat rose and white gold necklace with pink tourmaline and full cut diamonds.

Katherine Jetter

Katherine Jetter Hanging Vine earrings in 18-karat white gold with blue opal cabochons, tsavorite garnet pave on leaves, and 15-carat orange carnelian briolettes on 18-karat white gold chains.

Multihued gemstones lend themselves to a Ziggy Stardust, glam-rock vibe on Marie-Hélène de Taillac's gold chain duster earrings with tourmaline, sapphire, fire opals and peridot stones, and Noor Fares' rainbow rhombus ring is crafted with multicolored sapphires and a black rhodium finish.