Spicy, sweet and deep-fried: Exploring the culinary creations at the Orange County Fair

As the Orange County Fair swings into the second weekend of its 2018 run, we made our way to the Costa Mesa fairgrounds with our sights — and stomachs — set on this year’s lineup of fair food.

The menu includes items that are by turns mouth-watering and head-scratching. A funnel cake topped with peanut butter, jam and hot sauce? Deep-fried filet mignon on a stick? Lasagna nachos?

Yeah, we went there.

During our first review of fair fare in 2017, Chicken Charlie’s dished out one of our favorites, the Krispy Kreme ice cream chicken sandwich. We made Chicken Charlie’s our first stop this year on our exploration of new and notable morsels.

Deep-fried filet mignon

Chicken Charlie’s is more than just poultry. Charlie Boghosian, who runs the stand that’s well-known for its unique culinary creations, took a turn for the decadent this year.

Boghosian took filet mignon — the most succulent cut of meat — deep-fried it and put it on a stick with a side of ranch dressing.

Luke Money: Is there anything that screams “O.C. Fair” more than taking the proverbial king of beef cuts and tossing it in the deep fryer? That juxtaposition alone might be enough to declare this dish a success, but, thankfully, there’s a lot more going for it. The steak was very well-cooked — juicy with a nice tinge of pepper. The breading was similarly flavorful but unfortunately tended to separate from the steak after a bite or two. But it’s definitely worth a try. Be sure to have plenty of napkins on hand, though; there’s quite a bit of grease — not a bad feature in fair food.

Hannah Fry: There’s a lot I enjoyed about the deep-fried twist on a luxury steakhouse staple. The peppery seasoning on the filet mignon was spectacular. Poorly-seasoned steak is at the top of my culinary sin list — there’s no faster way to ruin a great cut of meat — so I was pleased that my first bite brought a nice punch of salt and pepper. The steak was cooked through but was still juicy. The batter was tasty, though it was so drenched in grease that it took away from the crispy coating.

PB&J Sriracha funnel cake

Emily Machelor, manager of Dutchmen’s Funnel Cakes, was intrigued by the exploding popularity of Flamin’ Hot Cheetos at last year’s fair and wanted to incorporate similar spicy elements in a staple dessert on the midway.

But she couldn’t come to grips with putting Cheetos on a funnel cake. Her stand, which prides itself on its unique funnel cake toppings, including Nutella and Oreos, looked to a beloved chili sauce instead.

The PB&J Sriracha funnel cake — featuring creamy Skippy peanut butter, raspberry jam and searing Sriracha sauce with a light dusting of powdered sugar — was born.

“We know we can do sweet right, so we’ve got that mastered,” Machelor said. “We had to come in and add something with a little bit of heat and still try to stick to what we do best. We didn’t want to push it too much.”

Money: As the Daily Pilot’s resident peanut butter and jelly enthusiast (just ask my editor), I was a little wary of this item. As it turns out, there was nothing to worry about. This isn’t just the best-tasting thing I tried at the fair this year, it might be the best thing I’ve eaten there, period. Each bite was a delight, packing an array of flavors that somehow coalesced into a scrumptious whole. The only suggestions I can think of to possibly make this better are mixing the toppings a tad more thoroughly to maximize how the flavors play off one another and perhaps using crunchy peanut butter to add some textural variety. Those are nitpicks, though. This one really works. I’m as surprised as you are.

Fry: Like every kid at heart, I’m a big fan of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. I also enjoy a hearty dose of Sriracha on foodsthat make most people raise their eyebrows. But I hesitated when I heard about those three items thrown together on a funnel cake. I was totally wrong. The funnel cake was perfectly fluffy and crispy, dusted with the exact portion of powdered sugar necessary to send me into a fit of childhood nostalgia. The peanut butter added a wonderful nuttiness paired with the sweet, but not too sugary, raspberry jam. The Sriracha was the real star of this creation. The chili sauce packed a swift kick but didn’t overpower the rest of the dish, instead cutting through some of the sweetness of the other ingredients. This one is a must try.

Lasagna nachos

We visited the Pignotti’s stand with the hope of trying the new Spaghetti Donut. However, that creation — which features cooked spaghetti molded into a doughnut shape with eggs, spices and cheese, then baked and topped with a choice of marinara, pesto or alfredo sauce — was unavailable when we arrived. We opted for the lasagna nachos instead.

Concessionaire Kathy McKnight and her son, Taylor, came up with the intriguing combination for that dish, inspired by their Italian heritage. Lasagna noodles, which are cut and then fried until they puff, are topped with marinara sauce and mozzarella and ricotta cheese.

“We take comfort foods and change the way you’re used to eating it,” McKnight said. “We make it more fun.”

The McKnights spend all winter testing and tweaking recipes in an effort to whip up a new twist on Italian cuisine that will tantalize even the most reluctant fair-goer.

“That’s why I’ll never be in smaller shorts,” McKnight joked.

Money: While my heart was set on the Spaghetti Donut, the lasagna nachos were a swell consolation prize. The “chips” were consistently crisp and held up surprisingly well under the coating of cheese and tangy sauce. Whoever made our order got a little heavy-handed with the ricotta cheese, and it would have been nice to have the option to add some kind of meat. But all in all, this was a delicious snack.

Fry: I’m a sucker for good Italian food and there’s a lot that works in this item. The lasagna noodles are expertly fried, which adds a nice crunch. A perfect amount of gooey mozzarella was melted over the noodles. The marinara sauce was a bit sweet for my taste. Adding a little more spice and perhaps some meat to the sauce would give some textural variety and kick this dish up a notch.

Chili chamoy candy apple

After a few savory stops, we decided to cut our teeth on something sweeter. Brander’s Candyland seemed to fit the bill, so we went to test the chili chamoy candy apple, which is coated with a chili paste and finished with sprinkles of salty powder.

Money: I’m sure there are plenty of people out there who will enjoy this. Unfortunately, I’m not one of them. Nothing about this item worked for me. After just one bite, the thick coating completely sloughed off the apple, leaving me to gnaw on a gooey glob. It didn’t take long for the saltiness to become overwhelming. I was only able to make it through one apple slice and part of another before throwing in the towel.

Fry: I understand the idea behind this creation, but it missed the mark. The flavor of the chamoy pairs well with the tart Granny Smith apple, but it’s layered on the apple so thick that it overwhelms the palate. Each bite should be a symphony, but instead it’s a mashup of two competing instruments. The hearty dusting of Tajin seasoning, which has a salty flavor, didn’t help much and added an unnecessary gritty texture.

Ham & Pineapple Donut

What do you get when you pair refreshing pineapple with sweet, smoky baked ham and a massive glazed doughnut? It’s an eye-popping dessert fit for the midway.

We headed to Texas Donuts for a twist on a favorite treat.

Money: If it were up to me, chefs would feel free — nay, encouraged — to put pineapple on everything. Pizza? Absolutely. Burgers? Of course. Doughnuts? You bet. Ham and pineapple is one of my favorite flavor combinations, and this particular pairing didn’t let me down. Surprisingly, the doughnut stole the show. Despite being as big as my head, every fluffy bite had just the right amount of sweetness. I do wish the pineapple was a bit fresher, though. More tartness would have made this treat shine even brighter.

Fry: If any doughnut was ever worth a photo on social media just to solicit awe over its massiveness, this doughnut is it. At first glance, I figured a Texas-size doughnut would have to be extremely dense. To my surprise, the dough was light and fluffy and the glaze had just the right touch of sweetness. The ham added a hint of saltiness, which was necessary in such a sweet treat. The tartness of freshly cut pineapple — instead of what I suspect was canned — would have cut through some of the sugar and added a nice textural element.

[email protected]

Twitter: @HannahFryTCN