Three-cheese potato gratin
Gratins, the prototype for American scalloped potatoes, can be almost obscenely rich and hearty. While Gruyere is the quintessential gratin cheese, my excessive side likes a gratin modeled on pasta sauce with multiple cheeses: aged Gorgonzola for tang, Italian fontina for almost nutty-tasting creaminess and Parmigiano-Reggiano for roundness and perfect crustiness. No matter what the cheese, the best potatoes for a gratin are Yukon Golds or russets (aka Idahos). Waxy potatoes are specified in plenty of traditional French recipes, but their texture seems to repel the cheese rather than soak it in the way a fluffier, more crumbly type does.
From the story: Made for each other
Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Butter an 8-by-12-inch square or oval gratin pan. Cut the garlic in half and rub the cut side all over the interior of the pan. Set aside.
Combine the Gorgonzola with the fontina and one-fourth cup Parmigiano-Reggiano. Set aside.
Peel the potatoes and place them in cold water. Remove 2 potatoes and pat dry. Thinly slice them and overlap the slices in the gratin dish. Season well with salt and pepper to taste. Distribute the combined cheeses evenly over the potatoes. Thinly slice the remaining potatoes and layer them over the cheese. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Pour the cream evenly over the potatoes. Distribute the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano evenly over the cream.
Bake 1 hour, 15 minutes, until the cream is bubbly, the top is well browned and the potatoes are tender. Let stand for 5 minutes before cutting into squares to serve.
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