Joan Nathan's Ann Arbor Schnecken (Sticky Pecan Rolls)
Sticky pecan rolls, sliced in concentric circles and toasted on a griddle with butter, were the irresistible draw to Ann Arbor’s now-closed Drake’s Sandwich Shop when I was a student at the University of Michigan. I imagined some little old lady making these rolls each morning but learned only recently that Drake’s ordered them from another bakery.
Baker Frank Carollo also tasted pecan rolls from Drake’s when he was at the University of Michigan. He later became co-managing partner at the Bakehouse, the second business in the Zingerman’s Deli empire. Frank learned to make pecan rolls, as did I, from Michael London of Mrs. London’s Bakeshop in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. Michael learned about these schnecken (the German and Yiddish name for “snails”) from the greatest of teachers, William Greenberg of William Greenberg Desserts in New York. Whenever I make these pecan sticky buns, I remember the taste, and the carefree years at my alma mater.
Note that the buns reheat well from room temperature (even if they’ve been frozen). Make them over two days; the dough is very soft, but that’s not a mistake.
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Make the dough: Combine the milk, yeast and flour in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix for a minute at low speed. Then add the butter, sugar and salt, increase the speed to medium and beat for another minute, until the mixture is creamy, scraping down as needed. Now add the whole egg and egg yolk; mix until they’re incorporated and scrape down the sides of the bowl. The dough will be sticky. Scrape it onto a sheet of plastic wrap, cover and refrigerate it overnight (or for at least 6 hours).
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees, grease a 9-by-3-inch baking dish and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Make the filling: Mix the sugar, cinnamon and salt in a small bowl.
Make the topping: Beat the butter, granulated sugar and muscovado sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer until creamy, then mix in the honey and salt.
Toast the pecans on the prepared baking sheet at 325 degrees for about 6 minutes, until fragrant. Spread the butter-sugar-honey topping on the bottom of the baking dish, then spread the pecans evenly over that.
Assemble and bake: Unwrap the chilled dough and put it on a floured surface. Dust the top with flour. Roll into a 9-by-12-inch rectangle that is about ¼-inch thick. Brush off any excess flour from the top and bottom of the dough, then arrange it with the long edge facing you. (Since the dough is so soft, it may expand beyond the initial dimensions, but do your best to keep it contained.) Brush melted butter over the surface, then sprinkle the cinnamon-sugar mixture over almost the entire surface, leaving 1 inch bare along the top long edge.
Starting with the edge closest to you, roll up the dough, keeping it as snug as possible. Once it’s completely rolled, pinch the far edge into the log to make a seam. Roll the log so the seam is on the bottom, then cut it into 12 equal slices. Arrange all the slices on the sticky topping, putting 4 rolls lengthwise and 3 widthwise. Press the rolls down until they’re ¾-inch thick. Put the pan on a parchment- or foil-lined baking sheet (in case of spillage), cover the rolls with plastic and let them proof for 1½ to 2 hours, until they’ve risen by 50%.
Thirty minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Bake the rolls for 30 to 35 minutes, until the buns are golden on top and the filling is bubbling below.
Cool for 5 minutes, then place a sheet tray or serving platter on top of the pan. Carefully and swiftly flip to invert the sticky buns onto the tray, then remove the pan. Let them cool for a few more minutes. Eat warm.
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