Dunsmoor's Lowcountry Risotto
First, you make a shrimp paste. This is what helps make an extra-flavorful Lowcountry risotto from Dunsmoor chefs Brian Dunsmoor and Manuel Mendoza, fortified with buttery shrimp paste, shrimp stock and plenty of Parmesan cheese. Carolina Gold rice — brought to America in the 1700s before nearly going extinct — is as excellent for making creamy rice as arborio. It takes time to make the fresh shrimp paste and stock for the risotto, but the resulting concentration of flavor is well worth the effort. As with risotto, remember to stir, stir, stir with hot stock that you keep heated on the stove. “You have to taste as you go,” Dunsmoor says. “What you’re really looking for is that consistency — the creaminess and a little bit of tooth on the rice.”
Note: Carolina Gold rice is available from Anson Mills and at select markets.
Brian Dunsmoor and Manuel Mendoza of Dunsmoor make a creamy shrimp risotto with Carolina Gold rice and shrimp stock.
Dunsmoor's Low Country Risotto
Make the shrimp paste: Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside. Peel the shrimp, reserving the shells and heads. Cut a shallow slit down the back of the shrimp and remove the vein. Blanch the shrimp in the boiling water for 1 minute and shock in the ice bath. Pat the shrimp dry.
Combine the blanched shrimp, butter, red pepper flakes, chives, lemon zest, shallot, sherry and a pinch of salt in a large mortar and pestle or food processor and process into a rough paste. Taste and adjust salt. Cool in the refrigerator.
Make the shrimp stock: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the shrimp shells and heads on a baking sheet and bake until slightly toasty and orange, 10 to 15 minutes.
In a medium-size pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat and sauté the shallots, garlic, thyme, bay leaves and shrimp shells, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and dry sherry and cook until the sherry has evaporated, about 4 minutes. Add cold water and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium low, to barely a simmer and cook for an hour. Strain and reserve the liquid and set aside.
Make the risotto: In a large heavy-bottom pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot and sauté for 5 minutes while stirring.
Add the rice and cook for an additional 3 to 4 minutes. Add the wine and sherry and cook the liquid down, stirring occasionally, until almost evaporated, about 5 minutes.
Season with salt, reduce the heat to low and begin adding hot shrimp stock (keep the pot of shrimp stock heated on the stove) in 1/2-cup increments while continuing to stir. Continue this process while stirring for about 20 to 25 minutes until the rice becomes creamy and slightly al dente. You might have a little stock left over or might have to add a little extra stock. If you run out of stock, just continue the process with hot water.
When the risotto is creamy and slightly al dente, add the cold butter, shrimp paste, chives and half the Parmesan cheese. Adjust the seasoning with salt, add lemon juice and cook for 1 additional minute. Plate in shallow bowls.
In a small sauté pan, gently warm or melt a little extra shrimp paste for garnish. Warm gently so it does not separate. Spoon the shrimp paste over the risotto and garnish with chives and more Parmesan cheese. You’re ready to serve. Enjoy a little taste of the Low Country.
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