Churros and chocolate dip
SO rare and precious was chocolate centuries ago that the Aztec emperor Montezuma sipped it from a golden cup. Never would he have imagined that his elixir’s prized ingredient would become an everyday luxury as it is today.
In modern Mexico, chocolate is still primarily something to drink, whipped to a froth with a wooden beater called a molinillo. Its other common use is in moles, adding depth and color to these rich, savory sauces.
Oddly enough, though, Mexican chocolate rarely, if ever, appears in desserts. But if you think about it, Mexican chocolate is a natural for the baker’s pantry. Not only is it already sweetened, but it’s also often made with vanilla, cinnamon or almonds.
Given these nuances of flavor, a dessert made with Mexican chocolate is irresistibly intriguing. It’s chocolate, but with a subtle, mysterious difference.
In the old days, Mexican women ground cacao beans on a metate, or grinding stone, warmed over a fire to extract the oil, then adding different seasonings. Today, the chocolate is produced in modern factories, but remains faithful to the old traditions.
The Mexican chocolate you’re likely to find in supermarkets is formed into round tablets that have been scored so they can easily be broken into smaller pieces. Two of the most common brands are Ibarra and Abuelita; they’re packaged in distinctive hexagonal boxes. Both work equally well in desserts; Abuelita has a stronger cinnamon flavor for when you want to play up the spice flavor.
Chocolate dip
Place the chocolate and cream in the top of a double boiler or in a metal bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Stir until the chocolate is melted, about 15 to 20 minutes. Makes 2 cups.
Churros
Bring 1 cup water to boil in a saucepan with the butter, sugar, salt and nutmeg. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the butter has melted. Meanwhile, measure out the flour.
Remove the butter mixture from the heat and immediately pour all the flour into the pan. Beat vigorously with a wooden spatula or spoon for several seconds to blend thoroughly, then return the pan to the stovetop.
Beat over moderately high heat for 1 to 2 minutes until mixture leaves the sides of the pan and the spoon, forms a mass and begins to film the bottom of the pan.
Remove the pan from the heat, and make a well in the center of the paste with the spoon. Immediately break an egg into the center of the well. Beat it into the paste for several seconds until it has been absorbed. Repeat with the second egg, beating it in until absorbed. Beat for an additional 1 to 2 minutes to be sure the mixture is well blended and smooth.
Spoon the paste into a pastry bag fitted with a three-fourths-inch star tip.
Heat 2 inches of oil in a large skillet to 350 degrees. Pipe churros directly into the oil in strips or loops, using a spatula to cut off each churro from the pastry tip. Fry 3 to 4 at a time, separating the churros if they begin to stick together; don’t overcrowd the pan. Fry until dark golden, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the churros to a plate lined with paper towels. Repeat with the rest of the paste.
Serve immediately with chocolate dip.
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