Celery, Mushroom and Leek Dan Dan Noodles
Spicy, nutty, salty, with a slight acidity, dan dan noodles are full of personality and very different from the comparatively mellow chow meins and ho funs of my childhood. Dan dan noodles come from northern China, a region known for its bold flavors and spiciness. I first came across this dish in New York at one of the many no-name noodle houses in Chinatown; I had never eaten this type of cuisine as a child, so discovering these flavors felt exciting. A street food in Sichuan, the dish is named after the type of pole (dan dan) used by vendors to carry baskets of noodles and sauce across their shoulders. Traditionally, dan dan noodles are made with pork and a fermented mustard pickle called sui mi ya cai (I’ve omitted this because it can be quite hard to find). My version is vegan, featuring mushrooms, celery and leek, which combine to impart an aromatic potency.
Celery, Mushroom and Leek ‘Dan Dan’ Noodles
Make the dan dan sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together the tahini, vinegar, tamari, chile oil, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, ginger and water until smooth.
Make the noodles: Bring a large saucepan of salted water to boil. Add the noodles and cook according to the packet instructions until al dente, about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water.
Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the celery and leek and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and garlic and cook, stirring, until they turn golden and start to caramelize, 4 to 5 minutes. Season with two big pinches of sea salt and a small pinch of white pepper and remove from the heat.
Add the noodles to the mushroom mixture and pour in the dan dan sauce. Toss to combine, making sure the noodles are well coated. Top with the sesame seeds, cilantro and scallions and drizzle with chile oil.
From “To Asia, with Love” by Hetty McKinnon (Prestel Publishing, 2021). Text and photography by Hetty McKinnon.
Get our Cooking newsletter.
Your roundup of inspiring recipes and kitchen tricks.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
