Restaurants, fashion, art: Image explores L.A. food culture - Los Angeles Timestwitterfacebookenvelope

It was the best of times. It was the worst of times. It was the excessively mid of times. In all seriousness, the food “scene” in Los Angeles is in rare form. Weekly Whole Foods 365 runs are approaching Manuela nights out. Ricky’s truck left L.A. Brooklyn pizza is in Culver City. Chilled reds are the new skin contact. Matchas often start sweetened. BCD on Wilshire isn’t 24 hours. They slaughtering vegetables in WeHo. All Day Baby siestas at 3. Meanwhile, the chicken man hasn’t been on Adams in weeks. What does it all mean?

The Culture wants nourishment, of course. The food gods of L.A. provide in abundance. Some might duck and dodge when the apples fall. But those who are tapped in know it’s best not to act scary. The magic happens for the brave souls who dare to look up. Only they can recognize who is truly providing food for the soul.

The running joke in L.A. is that, well … duh — L.A. has never really needed validation from those who offer their expertise on what food culture is about or where it’s going. Save the dinner table insights and the polls for the foodies and their kin, the political junkies, who need to feel like they’re in the know. If you want a cheat sheet for what will come around 10 years down the road, just visit a strip mall in the San Gabriel Valley or check out the innovation happening in your tío’s backyard. Don’t be afraid to call the number on the neighbor’s front door or pull over when you see the tent on the sidewalk. If your eyes can’t be trusted, roll the window down and let the smoke guide your nose to the real show.

Receptivity is the key ingredient. You can’t figure out what food is for without being open to what it can be. L.A.’s track record on this is impeccable. From the SGV to the westside, from South Gate to Leimert, Angelenos open themselves up to the food possibilities that call out to them from across the various diasporas. The recipes and traditions made their way here from a sacred place. Food culture was born from, and is driven by, hunger.

So, take a seat and ready yourself for a feast: “Diaspora” is about reconnecting with what matters. Consider this food culture’s Great Return. Our chefs will take care of the mains and sides — just bring your appetite. Jean Chen Ho has prepared a nostalgic piece that will transport you back to the food court of yesteryear. Josh Kun and Roy Choi will share what it means to really care for the people of L.A. through food. And Jazmín Urrea created a crunchy work of art to snack on for dessert.

We also wanted to set the table appropriately, so we brought in food artists Natalia Pereira, Saehee Cho, Karla Subero Pittol and Sandy Ho to make sure the presentation hit. Now, sit down and enjoy the good energy. The best dishes are meant to be shared. This isn’t a small-plates situation. Diaspora is a voyage through the mecca of food. In L.A., feeding people is an art of the highest order.

Ian F. Blair
Editor in Chief


Image logo by Christina Huang For The Times


Long live the mall food court!

Long live the mall food court!

On the nostalgia and subversive possibilities of taking up space in the pitstop of late-capitalist consumption in America  Read the story  🍕  
A mesa é um altar, the table is an altar

A mesa é um altar, the table is an altar

For L.A. food artists, culinary style is its own choreography  Read the story  🧺  
Roy Choi knows what it means to really care for the people of L.A. through food.

Roy Choi knows what it means to really care for the people of L.A. through food.

‘At the end of the day, chefs care; they want to feed everyone. But they’re also struggling to figure things out for themselves’  Read the story  👨🏻‍🍳  
Issue 15 cover

Get your copy

Issue 15: Diaspora

 Order now 
In praise of the best smelling food spots in L.A.

In praise of the best smelling food spots in L.A.

Lead with your nose. Turns out, you can eat a full meal in the city without taking a bite  Read the story  ♨️  
One time for L.A.’s grand cathedrals of fine dining

One time for L.A.’s grand cathedrals of fine dining

Raise a glass to Old Hollywood restaurants. The martinis, tuxedoed waiters and cigarette stains on a mural are a window to history  Read the story  🍸  
The most intimate food experience in L.A. is happening at the crib

The most intimate food experience in L.A. is happening at the crib

DM for addy and unlock a world of dining that edges into the sublime  Read the story  🏠  
You have 650 points to create the perfect L.A. hype beast. Go!

You have 650 points to create the perfect L.A. hype beast. Go!

Basic skills are needed to master the food and fashion game. Cheat codes can only get you so far  Read the story  🧢  
Taking stock of the vanishing landscape of ‘Russian Hollywood’

Taking stock of the vanishing landscape of ‘Russian Hollywood’

On the old haunts of Soviet and post-Soviet émigrés in West Hollywood and L.A.’s Fairfax District  Read the story  🐟  
Fashion doesn’t have to be so serious. See how this L.A. stylist adds a sense of play

Fashion doesn’t have to be so serious. See how this L.A. stylist adds a sense of play

You don’t dress Daniel Wu, Aminé and Tame Impala without knowing who you are. For Shaojun Chen, becoming a style visionary has been about finding a sense of self  Read the story  👗  
If you could compose a whole look from restaurant merch, what boxes would you check?

If you could compose a whole look from restaurant merch, what boxes would you check?

From Jon & Vinny’s X Dickies to Burger She Wrote X Gallery Dept., there’s an abundance of food and fashion items on the Family Style Fest menu  Read the story  👚  
Real life is trudging through a candy land food desert on an empty stomach

Real life is trudging through a candy land food desert on an empty stomach

Artist Jazmín Urrea’s ‘Estudio de Chucherías 1’ explores hunger as a landscape of Starburst, Flamin’ Hot Cheetos, Hot Tamales, Pulparindots, Jabalinas, Vero Paleta Mango and Zumba Pica Paleta Chamoy  Read the story  🍬  
7 items to nourish the soul headed into the extended culinary holiday in L.A.

7 items to nourish the soul headed into the extended culinary holiday in L.A.

From Ghetto Gastro’s ‘Black Power Kitchen’ to Cabi’s Original Trio, Coveted knows what you need to feel whole  Read the story  📕  
15 pop-ups, launches, events in L.A. to level up your November calendar, with style

15 pop-ups, launches, events in L.A. to level up your November calendar, with style

From Palm Angels’ boutique to the new Ferragamo capsule collection to the buzziest wine bar opening in Santa Monica, the Drip Index can add some heat to your schedule  Read the story  👔  


>