Diaspora

It was the best of times. It was the worst of times. It was the excessively mid of times. In all seriousness, the food “scene” in Los Angeles is in rare form. Weekly Whole Foods 365 runs are approaching Manuela nights out. Ricky’s truck left L.A. Brooklyn pizza is in Culver City. Chilled reds are the new skin contact. Matchas often start sweetened. BCD on Wilshire isn’t 24 hours. They slaughtering vegetables in WeHo. All Day Baby siestas at 3. Meanwhile, the chicken man hasn’t been on Adams in weeks. What does it all mean?

The Culture wants nourishment, of course. The food gods of L.A. provide in abundance. Some might duck and dodge when the apples fall. But those who are tapped in know it’s best not to act scary. The magic happens for the brave souls who dare to look up. Only they can recognize who is truly providing food for the soul.

The running joke in L.A. is that, well … duh — L.A. has never really needed validation from those who offer their expertise on what food culture is about or where it’s going. Save the dinner table insights and the polls for the foodies and their kin, the political junkies, who need to feel like they’re in the know. If you want a cheat sheet for what will come around 10 years down the road, just visit a strip mall in the San Gabriel Valley or check out the innovation happening in your tío’s backyard. Don’t be afraid to call the number on the neighbor’s front door or pull over when you see the tent on the sidewalk. If your eyes can’t be trusted, roll the window down and let the smoke guide your nose to the real show.

Receptivity is the key ingredient. You can’t figure out what food is for without being open to what it can be. L.A.’s track record on this is impeccable. From the SGV to the westside, from South Gate to Leimert, Angelenos open themselves up to the food possibilities that call out to them from across the various diasporas. The recipes and traditions made their way here from a sacred place. Food culture was born from, and is driven by, hunger.

So, take a seat and ready yourself for a feast: “Diaspora” is about reconnecting with what matters. Consider this food culture’s Great Return. Our chefs will take care of the mains and sides — just bring your appetite. Jean Chen Ho has prepared a nostalgic piece that will transport you back to the food court of yesteryear. Josh Kun and Roy Choi will share what it means to really care for the people of L.A. through food. And Jazmín Urrea created a crunchy work of art to snack on for dessert.

We also wanted to set the table appropriately, so we brought in food artists Natalia Pereira, Saehee Cho, Karla Subero Pittol and Sandy Ho to make sure the presentation hit. Now, sit down and enjoy the good energy. The best dishes are meant to be shared. This isn’t a small-plates situation. Diaspora is a voyage through the mecca of food. In L.A., feeding people is an art of the highest order.

Ian F. Blair
Editor in Chief

Image logo by Christina Huang For The Times