The Baja-style food is served in a spiffed-up setting that might be found in Mexicali. Dining on the just-across-the-border fare are, from left, Kristen Beissel, Rafael Patricio and Evelyn Guillen. (Don Bartletti / Los Angeles Times)
The grill is loaded with cachetadas, carne asada and sausages for the lunch crowd. [For the record: An earlier version of the caption mistakenly referred to the cachetadas as quesadillas.] (Don Bartletti / Los Angeles Times)
The tacos are loaded with fresh ingredients, including guacamole, roasted corn salsa and black beans. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)
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Mixologist Julian Cox trains servers and bartenders in anticipation of the Friday-night friends-and-family dinner at Picca, which specializes in Peruvian cuisine. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Julian Cox, left, Deysi Alvarez and Shane Croughan prep the bar at Picca restaurant. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Colorful mosaic tile leads to a ceviche bar and the main dining room. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Susan Feniger, left, and Mary Sue Milliken are the celebrity chef-owners behind the food, dinnerware and ambience at Border Grill. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)
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The churro tots are dulce de leche-infused churros covered with cinnamon sugar, served with chocolate and caramel dipping sauces and ample whipped cream. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)
The grilled skirt steak is served with black beans and handmade tortillas. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)
The ceviche duo: Peruvian, left, and Baja styles. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)
Interior of the downtown L.A. restaurant. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)
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The roasted potato rajas relleno: a poblano pepper stuffed with creamy potato rajas, quinoa spiced tomato salsa and salsa verde. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)