Ready, set, bake. But first, how exactly did Nonna do it?
Along with the holiday season comes holiday cookie baking. At The Times, we like to offer bakers new additions to their cookie repertoires. Check out, for example, cooking columnist Ben Mims’ “12 Days of Holiday Cookies.” His innovative treats include Za’atar Wedding Cookies, Lemony Gingerbread Cutouts and (gluten-free) Almond and Orange Shortbread Bars With Poppy Seed Jam.
This year, in her story “Bake like Nonna,” Times writer Stephanie Breijo shares recipes for heirloom Italian holiday cookies from members of the Garibaldina Society. Most of these recipes were passed from grandmothers to their offspring but had never been written on paper. Ingredients and their proportions as well as methodologies were eventually elicited by younger generations trailing their nonne with measuring cups, pencil and paper as they worked to preserve the family traditions and recipes.
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Some of the cookies, such as Lauren Veca’s almondy, marzipan-based pink, green and white (or yellowish off-white) layered “Versace” Rainbow Cookies and Marie and Emil Mor’s chewy, pine-nut-studded Pignoli may be familiar sights at bakeries and delis around town. Others, such as Ignacio Vivirita’s Cuccidati (a.k.a. Sicilian “Fig Newtons”) and Michelangela “Lina” Pompilio’s Cartellate — fried ribbon-like pinwheel-shaped cookies slicked in vincotto, honey or some combination thereof — might be less well-known here in the States but have rock-star status back in their homeland.
Crispy and versatile, Lupe and Cecilia Del Rivo’s Pizzelle are delicious straight from a pizzelle press and sprinkled, when cooled, with powdered sugar. Or they can be shaped while still warm into cones and later filled with ice cream or a creamy, ricotta- or mascarpone-based filling such as that used for cannnoli.
Amanda Lanza’s family favorite, a riff on a traditional milk cookie (biscottoni) are lovingly called “The Brick” Cookies because of her nonna’s penchant for leaving them in the oven until they were nearly as hard as the building blocks. Lanza’s version is less so, and they are perfect for dipping into espresso or cappuccino.
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Marie and Emil Mor’s Pignoli
Quite possibly the MVP of the Italian bakery, pignoli are the nutty, soft, textured cookies found in any Italian cookie spread worth its salt. Named for their topping of a scattering of pine nuts, Sicilian pignoli — also referred to as amaretti con pignoli — involve almond flour or marzipan that creates a chewy, luscious center while a thin, crackly outer layer provides structure. (And they are gluten-free.)
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Cook time: 1 hour 20 minutes.
Lupe and Cecilia Del Rivo’s Pizzelle
Crisp and light as air or chewy and sturdy, the consistency of the iconic pizzelle depends on preference and pizzelle iron. These flat, round and delicate cookies are especially traditional to the holiday season, and they add a festive touch to the table when dusted with powdered sugar.
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Cook time: 1 hour 10 minutes.
Lauren Veca’s ‘Versace’ Rainbow Cookies
One of an Italian bakery’s most beloved creations, this tricolor treat stacks three layers of red, green and white (or pale yellow) cake to resemble the Italian flag. Jam — traditionally raspberry, but apricot or your favorite flavor can be substituted — is spread between the layers and the full assemblage is then topped with melted chocolate.
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Cook time: 4 hours, plus chilling time.
Ignazio Vivirito’s Cuccidati (Sicilian Fig Cookies)
Cuccidati are classic Sicilian cookies that are like grown-up Fig Newtons that appear around Christmastime. Flaky dough is filled with a fig or mixed-fruit jam. Enjoy as is or top them with icing and sprinkles.
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Cook time: 2 hours 40 minutes plus chilling time.
Amanda Lanza’s ‘The Brick’ Cookies
This simple, vanilla-scented riff on a classic Italian breakfast cookie or biscottoni is delicious with a glass of milk or espresso.
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Cook time: 45 minutes plus overnight chilling time.
Michelangela ‘Lina’ Pompilio’s Cartellate
Both online and among nonne, there is much discussion about whether to use wine, grape syrup or honey for soaking these cookies. Italian vincotto is often used and can be purchased online and in many of L.A.’s Italian delis and specialty grocers. As a substitute, grape syrup or grape molasses can be found at smaller grocery chains such as Jon’s and Super King, but these cookies might also be made with a substitution of date syrup instead.
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Cook time:1 hour 50 minutes plus several hours drying and soaking time.
Za’atar Wedding Cookies
Za’atar, the dried herb spice mix used in savory Middle Eastern cooking, shines in these lightly sweetened, crumbly wedding cookies, coated in snowy powdered sugar.
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Cook time: 45 minutes
Almond and Orange Shortbread Bars With Poppy Seed Jam
These gluten-free shortbread bars, made with almond flour and flavored with clementine zest, sandwich a sweet-bitter poppy seed jam.
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Cook time: 2 hours
Lemony Gingerbread Cutouts
Traditional gingerbread cookie cutouts get a flavor boost thanks to tart lemon zest and ground coriander. Perfect for Christmas parties and potlucks.
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Cook time: 2 hours
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