A plate of tamales at Sabores Oaxaqueños. (Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)
Celebrate the holidays with 22 of the best tamales in L.A. and O.C.
There are certain signs that herald the arrival of the holiday season here in Los Angeles. The twinkling lights strung along our trafficked boulevards. The fake snow machines that delight children as they wait in line for mall Santa. The neighborhood vendors whose bell carts ring rhythmically as they stroll our streets and shout their top-selling item, “Tamales! Tamales!”
Wave down a vendor and you’ll find their tamales are as varied as the wrapped presents beneath a Christmas tree. The masa-based staple traces its origins to Mesoamerica and has countless iterations — around 500 types of tamales are credited to Mexico alone, plus bite-size chuchitos from Guatemala, sweet corn-filled ducunus from Belize, a Salvadoran variety that mixes masa with refried beans and many more.
We’re lucky to find nearly all of them here in Southern California, plus inventive options spearheaded by a new generation of chefs who are reclaiming the tamal as a canvas for creativity. Just as prevalent as traditional tamales, these reimagined versions tout local produce and often play on the multicultural backgrounds of their makers.
Tamales — a labor of love often taken for granted — keep generations connected to our ancestral home in Nayarit, Mexico.
Chef Mario Alberto, who grew up preparing corn husks and making masa dough for tamales that his mother would sell every holiday season, thought he wanted nothing more to do with making them. But after offering them last year at his vegetarian restaurant Olivia in Koreatown, Alberto gained new respect for his mother’s craft and decided to commit more fully to carving out his own perspective. Armed with his ancestral skills, Alberto concocted a masa recipe that substituted lard with coconut fat and avocado oil and layered in aromatics such as thyme and turmeric.
Instead of “12 days of Christmas,” make it a dozen days of tamale tasting and dig into specialties that range from plantain-wrapped options drenched in Oaxacan mole to sweet variations filled with macerated strawberries and topped with pistachio crumbles. Ready to complete your holiday and New Year spreads, here are 22 of our favorite tamale makers across Los Angeles and Orange County, spanning bakeries, street vendors, pop-ups and more.
For modern-day chefs who are descendants of Latin American cuisine, room exists for traditional recipes to bend and crack, opening up possibilities for something new and reflective of today’s culture.
Angry Egret Dinette
Cena Vegan
For Santillan’s mom, it was always required that the masa’s corn be freshly ground, and for Santillan, it’s become a necessity at Cena Vegan too. “These recipes are so important to us: That was my inheritance, those recipes, that methodology, that kind of respect and love for food,” she said. The bright chile verde “chicken” version stews tofu strands with a chile verde made from poblano, jalapeño and Anaheim peppers. Santillan’s mother’s favorite was always the rojo, which she filled with beef, but at Cena, they use a soy-protein take on chile Colorado to replicate the meat, simmering it in a deeply flavorful chile sauce, then adding carrots, potatoes and small green olives in a northern Mexico, “Mexicali” style. Each version can be ordered a la carte for $4 or by the half-dozen for $24.
Chevita's Juice & Bagels
Comal
El Molino de Oro
Guatemalteca Bakery and Restaurant
Guerrilla Tacos
Guisados
La Indiana Tamales
La Original Panaderia El Salvador
La Poblana Bakery
La Tamaleria at Mercado Gonzalez Northgate Market
There are more than 20 stalls for enjoying food and drinks on-site or to go, including Mexico City-based El Moro churro stand, and Santa Ana food truck Chiva Torta with Guadalajara-style tortas ahogadas. La Tamaleria is ready to meet your tamale needs year-round with masa bundles that can be ordered fresh or in airtight packages for reheating at home. Fillings for corn husk-wrapped tamales include pork, chicken, beef, jalapeños and cheese, sweet corn, pineapple and strawberry; or opt for banana leaf-wrapped options with chicken and mole or pork rib meat with salsa ranchera. Corn husk tamales are $3 each, a half-dozen for $14 and a dozen for $27, or get a plate with rice and cheesy refried beans for $10. Banana leaf tamales are $5 each. If you’re not in a hurry, order a champurrado, traditional Mexican hot chocolate, or atole, a warm masa-based beverage, and find a seat to take in the live mariachi band that’s likely playing onstage.
Las Brisas de Apatzingan
Marcella's Tamales
Find her cart on the corner of 8th and Normandie, next door to Jons market in the heart of Oaxacan Koreatown, where she sets up underneath a rainbow umbrella from 9:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Sundays.
Mi Guate Bella Restaurante
Mi Ranchito Veracruz
Olivia
At his vegetarian restaurant Olivia in Koreatown, Alberto is filling tamales with chickpeas; jackfruit marinated in tomato chipotle puree and braised for several hours, then dehydrated; and green salsa with pasilla. Another option: mushrooms and eggplant with chile morita. He makes the masa with coconut fat and avocado oil instead of lard and infuses it with aromatics such as thyme, turmeric or rosemary. “Personally, I love the flavor of yellow masa but texturally prefer masa quebrada, the way it’s ground,” Alberto says. “What I like about it is it fluffs up a lot better.”
Order by Dec. 17 for pickup on Dec. 22 or Dec. 23.
Olmeca
“My masa is unique, it’s very flavorful,” says Mata, who has worked at Bestia and Barra Santos in L.A., but grew up in Washington, D.C., and learned to make tamales from her Salvadoran “aunt,” a good friend of her Mexican mother. “These aren’t Mexican tamales, they aren’t Central American. They’re a mix.” She makes distinctive masa uniquely suited to each type of tamal, adding consommé to the masa for birria, salsa verde for the carnitas. “Every stock [for masa] is catered to the filling. That’s the beautiful thing about masa.”
Pre-order for Christmas for pick-up from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Dec. 22 or Dec. 23. For New Year’s Eve; pickup is from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Dec. 30.
Sabores Oaxaqueños
Sandra's Tamales
Saucy Chick Goat Mafia
Tamaleria Rincon Sinaloense
Eat your way across L.A.
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