Best restaurants with salted egg dishes in L.A. - Los Angeles Times
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Two pieces of salted yolk French toast stacked one atop the other.
Chef-owner Ryan Wong’s salted yolk French toast at Needle in Silver Lake.
(Bill Addison / Los Angeles Times)

11 delicious ways to eat salted egg in Los Angeles

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Salted egg has long been a prized ingredient in Asian cuisines, punching up sweet and savory dishes with bursts of umami. Its buttery rich and briny yolk, which shines in vibrant hues of yellow and orange, is commonly found in Chinese mooncakes, rice porridge and zongzi (sticky rice dumplings). It’s the ingredient of the moment in Los Angeles — chefs have even stuffed it into French toast and coated fried shimeji mushrooms with it.

The first record of salt-cured eggs dates back to the 5th century in China in a historical text called the Qimin Yaoshu, according to the Michelin Guide. Usually made with duck but sometimes chicken eggs, the whole egg or just the yolk can be cured with salt or soaked in a brine for days to months. The result is a dense orb that’s sometimes thought of as Asia’s answer to Parmesan cheese. When the yolk is mashed and heated with butter or oil, it transforms into a creamy and grainy sauce that’s earned the moniker “golden sand.”

Its versatility is seemingly endless: It adheres well to fried food or can be made into a custard for desserts. Singapore-based snack brand Irvins is an international sensation with its salted-egg-covered chips, which can be purchased at stores such as 99 Ranch and Costco. Find salted egg in a variety of dishes at Hong Kong-style cafes and in Filipino sweets, where it often serves as the springboard for new recipes. From Silver Lake to Pasadena, here’s a guide to the best salted egg dishes in L.A.

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Grass-fried shimeji mushrooms from Colette.
(Jean Trinh)

Colette

Pasadena Cantonese Dim Sum $$
Ever since chef Peter Lai (formerly of Embassy Kitchen) took the reins of Colette last November, the restaurant has ushered in a new era for modern Cantonese cooking. Even its casual patio, with plant walls, a neon Colette sign and dark brown picnic tables, seems to match its contemporary dishes. Lai completely revamped Colette’s American brunch menu with a handful of dishes that are kicked up with salted egg yolk.

One of his most interesting plates is the “faux gras” shimeji mushrooms. The delicately battered and fried white beech mushrooms are lightly laminated in duck liver and bits of salted egg yolk. Other notable dishes include luffa (a sponge-like squash) stir-fried with salted egg yolk; and a lotus-wrapped sticky rice filled with chicken, mushroom and salted egg yolk, topped with mozzarella cheese that gets torched tableside.
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Kuya Lord's bibingka mamon is wrapped in banana leaves.
(Jean Trinh)

Kuya Lord

East Hollywood Filipino $$
At chef Lord Maynard Llera’s small but mighty restaurant off of bustling Melrose Avenue, he delivers his take on Southern Tagalog cuisine with confidence. While Kuya Lord is popular for dishes like an incredibly crispy, slow-roasted pork belly and grilled prawns in a garlicky crab sauce, you would be remiss to not sample its next-level desserts. Wrapped in banana leaves, the bibingka mamón is a fragrant, Filipino rice flour sponge cake that Llera accentuates with a spread of creamy salted egg yolk, cheese and panutsa (brown sugar) butter.
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Four round cakes — purple, gold, pale green and white — in white ruffled paper cups
(Jean Trinh)

Aliya Lavaland

Monterey Park Confections Thai $
Aliya Lavaland’s signature lava mooncake is a thing of beauty. Pastel, spiral-layered pastries are filled with mashed mung beans and oozing orange salted egg yolk custard. Pastry chef and owner Alise Mekaswarn’s creations are a mashup of Thai kanom pia (a.k.a. thousand-layer mooncake) and Cantonese steamed lava buns. Hers come in flavors like matcha, taro, Hawaiian purple yam and black sesame. Just as delightful as the pastries, the lighthearted to-go shop that Mekaswarn runs with her husband, Henry, has a painted mural of children enjoying pastries and the whimsical message, “Lava is all you need.”
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Salted yolk French toast cut in half and stacked
(Bill Addison / Los Angeles Times)

Needle

Silver Lake Chinese $$
On a busy stretch of Sunset Boulevard, Needle stands out with a pop of green color on its signage. It’s a refreshing addition to the area with chef-owner Ryan Wong’s unique takes on Hong Kong-style diner food, an amalgamation of Cantonese and Western cuisines. One of his most inventive and photogenic dishes is the salted yolk French toast. Here, a rich and creamy custard made with the yolk is enveloped between two slices of milk bread; the whole sandwich is battered and deep fried, coming out light and crispy and topped with drizzles of sweetened condensed milk and maple syrup. When it’s cut in half, the custard oozes out with a perfect balance of sweet and savory. It pairs nicely with a warm cup of one of Needle’s high-end loose-leaf teas.
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salted egg yolk-covered fried chicken wings in a stack
(Jean Trinh)

Tam’s Noodle House

San Gabriel Valley Chinese $$
Tam’s Noodle House is a delightful Hong Kong-style cafe that arrived on the scene in 2021. Its breezy, covered patio — complete with a TV screen playing Canto-pop music videos — gives it a little edge in a city with plenty of competition. Its salted egg yolk-covered fried chicken wings are particularly special. Incredibly crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside, the wings sit on a bed of sliced cabbage and are paired with a bowl of white rice. Also not to be missed is the deep-fried shrimp that’s covered in the luscious sauce as well.
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Jian bing from Me + Crepe, a stuffed crepe dotted with sesame seeds
(Jean Trinh)

Me + Crepe

Pasadena Chinese $$
A Chinese chain hailing from Canada, Me + Crepe has stateside locations in Pasadena and Rowland Heights. It boasts more than a dozen types of hand-held jian bing (a Chinese street-food crepe), with fillings that run the gamut from crawfish to Peking duck. One of its most unusual offerings is a sweet and savory number, a crepe folded over creamy salted egg yolk, mashed sweetened taro, pork floss, seaweed, cheese and bao cui (a deep-fried cracker). The marriage of flavors and textures makes this a memorable meal in a casual shop that’s perfect for a quick grab-and-go meal.
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Soup dumplings in a round metal steamer
(Jean Trinh)

Shanghai Dumpling House

San Gabriel Valley Chinese $
At this quaint dumpling spot in the Hilton Plaza, the chefs make xiao long bao with aplomb (and can be viewed from behind the counter rolling out paper-thin dough for the delicate skins). One of its most unusual renditions of the beloved soup dumpling is filled with juicy ground pork and creamy salted egg yolk. The tiny restaurant has a handful of tables for dine-in and is also a popular spot for excellent beef rolls and noodle soups.
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The pork patty from Henry's Cuisine, topped with salted egg yolk slices and green onions
The pork patty from Henry’s Cuisine for fo-the-best-salted-egg-yolk-dishes-across-los-angeles.
(Jean Trinh)

Henry’s Cuisine

Alhambra Chinese Seafood $$
L.A. Times’ 101 Best Restaurants
| 2022
With its two owners named Henry Tu and Henry Chau, it‘s only fitting that this restaurant is charmingly dubbed Henry’s Cuisine. Primarily focused on seafood and Cantonese fare (with Vietnamese-Chinese influences), and with red leather booths and large round tables with Lazy Susans, this SGV mainstay is a lovely spot for gatherings and celebrations. The restaurant boasts several dishes with salted egg, from fried shrimp to a shredded pork and bean curd soup. But it also pays homage to the traditional steamed ground pork patty that’s textured with diced water chestnuts and adorned with slices of salted egg yolk and a shower of sliced green onion. It swims in a shallow pool of meat juices that are perfect for spooning over a bowl of white rice.
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Pieces of fried crab stacked on a plate in a restaurant
(Jean Trinh)

Tang Dynasty

San Gabriel Valley Chinese $$
Tang Dynasty is a gem of a spot that celebrates late-night eating and drinking culture. Occupying the third floor of San Gabriel’s Hilton Plaza, the lively Hunanese restaurant, decorated with orange and teal neon lights, is the type of place that will serve massive seafood platters, grilled skewered meats and Asian cocktails and shots, along with free karaoke and live music. One of its show-stopping dishes is a fried crab glazed in salted egg yolk sauce that’s best paired with a frosty pint of beer.
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A pile of pieces of fried pumpkin on a white plate
(Jean Trinh)

Alice's Kitchen

Monterey Park Chinese $$
Alice’s Kitchen hits all the right notes when it comes to Hong Kong-style cafes: It has a scroll of a menu, delicious food and quick service in a no-frills space. Its parking lot has been transformed into a massive, covered dining area with foldout tables, so it’s perfect for groups too. The lunch menu boasts battered and fried pumpkin slices covered in a buttery salted egg yolk. Soft on the inside and crunchy on the outside, this dish is best paired with white rice and Hong Kong-style milk tea.
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Three round black buns, each with a stripe of gold, in a takeout container
(Jean Trinh)

Chef Tony

Pasadena Chinese $$
Chef Hui Dong “Tony” He of his namesake restaurant, with locations in Pasadena and Arcadia, is a veteran in the dim sum scene. At this more modern and casual sibling concept to his long-standing Sea Harbour in Rosemead, he whips up a stunning take on steamed molten custard salted egg yolk buns. His dough is mixed with squid ink, giving an intense black tint to the pillowy soft bun, brushed with gold foil on top and filled with the creamy sauce. (The buns also can be found at Sea Harbour.)
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