Jonathan Gold’s favorite vegetarian tacos

Loteria Grill and its sister restaurants are known for their Mexico City-style tacos guisados, thick corn tortillas wrapped around stews like chicken tinga or meatballs in chipotle salsa. Does this mean that you should ignore the mushroom tacos seasoned with epazote and crumbled cotija cheese? No, it does not.   (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

If you really want to barbecue your tongue, these tacos at Ricardo Diaz’s gastropub Bizarra Capital may be just the thing: a bit of cheese and five kinds of grilled chiles.  (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

Border Grill is a restaurant still serving spit-shined versions of southern Mexican classics made with first-rate ingredients in the company of a really good bar. Do they put quinoa, amaranth and corn relish on their avocado tacos? They do. And you should be happy about it.   (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

Mmm. Cauliflower goodness in a taco at Colonia Taco Lounge in La Puente.  (Jonathan Gold / Los Angeles Times)

The tacos you get at Guerrilla Tacos are as likely to be stuffed with diver scallops or Tuscan kale as they are to be heaped with carnitas. The tacos made with roasted squash and seared Oaxacan cheese does tend to turn up a lot, though.   (Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times)