Petty Cash Taqueria offers the basics, such as al pastor or a taco with roasted crickets. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
The bar is lively and inventive at Petty Cash Taqueria. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Aguachiles en Molcajetes can be custom-made with your own selection of live seafood. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
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Ceviche Negro, left, and kampachi ceviche served with tortilla chips. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
A plate of huazontle, a zesty vegetable also known as goosefoot, is sauced. It’s dipped in egg batter and fried in hot oil, then drenched in roasted guajillo salsa and a shaving of queso cincho. (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)
Ricardo Diaz, right, chats with guests at his new restaurant Bizarra Capital. (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)
A dish of mole fries with mole poblano gravy, melted cheese, grilled onions and fries at Ricardo Diaz’s new restaurant Bizarra Capital. (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)
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A house-made sangria comes loaded with fresh fruit. (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)
A chef’s special is battered squash blossoms stuffed with goat cheese and served with corn salsa. (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)
Inside La Carreta where they charge a few cents more per tacos de tripas than they do for all other meats, including the pork-shoulder chorizo made in the back, and they are set off in larger type on the menu board. (Bob Chamberlin / Los Angeles Times)