Phillip Lim channels the sweeter, gentler times of the Victorian era and the ‘50s at New York Fashion Week

Backstage at the show, Phillip Lim said he hopes that kinder, gentler times are on the way. He ushered in his own version on Monday with his spring 3.1 Phillip Lim collection, calling it “my reaction to what is going on right now in our culture — it just felt right.”

Helping set the mood was his muse, Patsy Cline, on a soundtrack perfectly in tune with Lim’s slightly retro but thoroughly modern collection. Models on his square, dirt-covered runway strewn with flowers — a continuation of the floral pattern on the clothes, he said — moved at a languid pace, intentionally slowing things down a bit. Calling the look a “new playful austerity,” Lim channeled the sweeter, gentler times of the Victorian era and the Fifties. He added accents such as ruffle edges and zipper details on overalls and slinky dresses, for example, the latter giving the pieces the tough edge Lim is known for.

Lim’s outerwear has always been a strong suit, especially indoor-outdoor toppers, and he opened with a maxi-length white vest over a floral bra and miniskirt, which reappeared later in the lineup in other colors. The juxtaposition of his two inspirations was most evident in two looks: a high-neck floral ruffle dress and a black leather bra paired with python play shorts. Python also had a moment with a ruffle-edged skirt and body-con scuba dress, while silk satin charmeuse embodied the opposing mood in sophisticated dresses that included a white scoop-neck shift with fly-away sleeves. Softer pale pink satin was worked as a bowling shirt and simple jeans, and as a bomber over a bralette and play shorts.

Tough austerity was seen in leather jackets, another staple from Lim, and graphic interest in a black-and-white linen jumper and a group of sleek knits. While the collection didn’t focus on Lim’s more technically creative designs, it did show his more feminine side, which he grounded with heavily studded platform sandals and bags, including the new Dolly bag (named for Ms. Parton).

As Lim said to his models backstage preshow: “This is real rock ‘n’ roll. This is honky-tonk, badass rock ‘n’ roll.”