New York Fashion Week spring 2014: Jeremy Scott review
NEW YORK -- Jeremy Scott unveiled a collaboration with artist Kenny Scharf for his spring and summer 2014 men’s and women’s collection that hit the runway at Milk Studios here on Wednesday.
The inspiration: Titled “Teenagers from Mars,” this collection combines the rebellious spirit of ‘50s-era youth with a future-past Space Age aesthetic to create a range of pieces perfect for the planet-hopping retro-rebel set.
The look: Scott’s usual riot of pattern and color on form-fitting, one-shoulder dresses, bathing suits, skirts and bustier tops for women, several riffs on a bowling shirt silhouette for men (which worked particularly well with the overall vibe of the collection). Recurring prints included an all-over print “angry face” caricature, red squiggly tentacle-like tubes against a multicolored background and a black, inky squiggle and colored spots against white that reminded me (in a good way) of the countertop in a Googie-style diner.
The disenfranchised of 1950/2050 let their voice be heard via a series of slogan pieces including T-shirts printed with “Mars or Bust” and “Teenagers from Mars” and an orange mesh top proclaiming “Earth Sucks.”
Thanks to the towering beehive hairdos on the women -- and pompadours on some of the men -- and a soundtrack that included songs such as “Mr. Sandman,” “Lollipop” and “My Boyfriend’s Back” -- the show overall called to mind Tim Burton’s “Mars Attacks.”
According to the show notes, the collaboration with Scharf included three repeat prints done in collaboration with Scott as well as a “hand screen-printed collage group using Kenny’s iconic characters.” (That we had to take a second glance to suss out exactly which of prints were the fruits of the collaboration and which weren’t speaks to how simpatico both men are style-wise.)
Scharf says in the notes that he was excited to collaborate with the designer. “[E]ver since I first saw his collection of Jetsonesque designs, I immediately felt that we would be a great match,” he says, “Jeremy is the first person that I ever let take my art and do whatever he wants.” (Scharf’s past collaborations include a limited-edition Elie Tahari collection, Movado watches, Levi’s trucker jackets and Kiehl’s).
The scene: High-profile attendees included a sister/brother act -- sisters Nicky and Paris Hilton and brothers Kevin and Joe Jonas, as well as photographer Terry Richardson, DJ/model Leigh Lezark and rappers ASAP Rocky and Nicki Minaj.
The verdict: Though we’ve long had a soft spot for Scott’s handiwork, the collaboration with Scharf makes for an out-of-this world spring and summer 2014 collection.
Mars or bust, indeed.
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