A clink of glasses, a magnificent spread

LOS OLIVOS —  The dusky leaves of the gnarled live oaks undulate in the breeze, and acres of Syrah and Grenache and Sangiovese vines stretch out before you. A couple of cows make slow progress down the golden hills in the distance; there’s the faint music of a fountain, a clink of glasses, a rustle of leaves. You break crusty bread, slice into a softly collapsing cheese. A plate of figs, a bunch of grapes, a glass of wine.

It’s harvest season in Santa Barbara wine country, and the grapes are hanging fat and purple and heavy on the vines. It’s the perfect moment for a picnic in the vineyards.

From the bucolic, tree-lined lanes of the Santa Ynez Valley to the winding roads and steep, ocher slopes of Ballard Canyon and further west to the softer landscape of the Santa Rita Hills (you sense the sea just beyond), there are dozens of wineries where you can picnic.

Pack up a spread, something as off-the-cuff as sandwiches or as carefully thought out as a layered vegetable terrine and a rustic peach tart and make the drive a couple of hours north. But which winery to choose for the afternoon idyll? And what are the dishes that travel best, even benefit from an overnight rest?

We’ve scouted winery picnic spots around Santa Barbara County and found the most pastoral, the most gorgeous, the most convenient. But first, the menu.

Dishes that speak of late summer feel right now. Heirloom tomatoes, which are so great this year, make a salad no one can argue with -- just slice them in the morning before you leave, drizzle with sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, great olive oil and torn basil leaves. The flavors will meld on the way as you drive.

But ripe tomatoes take on a completely different character when you slow-roast them to concentrate and deepen that marvelous flavor, so instead, you might want to turn them into a gorgeous red soup that you chill overnight. Bring it along in a thermos, or in a jar in your cooler, along with some pistou (France’s version of pesto, minus the pine nuts) or crème fraîche. Serve it in your best plastic low-ball glasses, swirling a little pistou or crème fraîche on the surface of each at the last minute (no spoons necessary).

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The main event

The centerpiece of the menu is a butterflied leg of lamb stuffed with olives and figs and served cool. Roast it the night before, tuck it into the fridge, and slice it in the morning -- the pretty streaks of cured olives, black Mission figs and flecks of rosemary mean you need neither sauce nor condiment.

Served hot, it would feel too heavy this time of year (and, man, it can get hot in these vineyards), but cooled down, the flavors mellowed overnight, it’s fantastic for a picnic, especially with a great Syrah.

A minted cucumber salad, dosed with thick Greek yogurt, provides a cool, refreshing counterpoint to the lamb. Salting the cucumbers before you make the salad makes them release much of their water; this also prevents the dish from getting soggy overnight. Bring fresh mint separately in a paper towel or plastic bag, then tear it and add it at the last minute so it doesn’t discolor.

A simple dish of flageolet and cannellini beans, cooked till tender and laced with olive oil, shallots, rosemary and a generous confetti of fresh parsley, pulls it all together. A traditional match with lamb, the beans are great served at room temperature; the soft flavors of the beans and the herbs deepen overnight.

For dessert, tarts and crisps and crumbles are great this time of year and go well with the late-summer menu, but you really don’t need anything more complicated than some great ripe fruit and cheese. Seckel pears are just coming in; nectarines are still fabulous, and of course figs still rock.

If it’s Saturday, you might want to do your fruit shopping at the wonderful farmers market in downtown Santa Barbara; it’s right on the way. The market, near the corner of Santa Barbara and Cota streets, is smaller than the Santa Monica Wednesday market -- it feels like a backyard garden party -- but many of the same farmers show up and even shop there. Lately, there have been wonderful peaches, plums and apples from Mud Creek Ranch. The market also provides good crudité opps: breakfast radishes from Jimenez Family Farm or multicolored carrots from McGrath Family Farms.

Fortunately, you don’t have to worry about buying the cheese ahead of time -- there are a few shops in Santa Barbara with excellent selections (see information box). If you have easy access to great bread, you might want to pick that up before you hit the highway; there’s pretty good bread in these shops too, but nothing as good as a fresh pain rustique from Breadbar or a baguette from Le Pain Quotidien.

When you pack it all up, tuck in a wooden cutting board or two -- they do double duty as platters (you can cut the bread and cheese right on them). Don’t forget water -- harvest season can mean searing heat -- and a corkscrew.

So where, then, to picnic?

Maybe you got a later-than-planned start, and you’re famished by the time you hit Santa Ynez. Just take a left from Highway 154 onto Mission Drive (Highway 246) heading west, and less than half a mile away, there’s a pretty, peaceful spot at Gainey Vineyards.

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Pick your vista

But if you’re in the mood for a repast with a Provençal feel, Buttonwood Farm, a little ways up Pintado Road, can’t be beat. Pintado Road feels like a vacation in itself -- it’s apple country, and there are pick-your-own farms, as well as a lavender farm.

There are just three old rustic picnic tables in the little glade behind Buttonwood’s tasting room, surrounded by peach trees and fronted by a vegetable and herb garden, with views of the vineyards. If you make it up there before peach season is over, plop your basket on a table, stroll over to the farm stand next to the tasting room, and pick up a paper bag full of fabulous, perfectly ripe peaches -- or even a freshly baked peach pie -- for dessert. Then head into the tasting room and buy a bottle of 2005 Sauvignon Blanc ($14) for your picnic; the employees there will be happy to loan you glasses. (If your group has more than three or four people, it’s probably good form to bring some of your own glasses along with you too.)

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The right wine

None of the wineries we visited allows anything but their own wines to be consumed on their premises. (According to Wendell Lee, general counsel for the Wine Institute, with some exceptions, state law prohibits visitors from bringing any alcoholic beverage from outside to be consumed on the winery’s property.) But buying a bottle for a group seems just right anyway -- after all, the winery’s providing its own little slice of heaven for your enjoyment. You can go inside the tasting room at any of these spots and taste a couple wines or purchase a flight to see what you like; there will certainly be something just right for your picnic.

Not far from Buttonwood, just east of Pintado Road (though it must be approached from Roblar Avenue off Highway 154), is Beckmen Vineyards. Not only are the wines here magnificent, but so is the picnicking.

Start in the tasting room, next to the small red barn where they make the wine, and pick up a bottle of 2006 Grenache rosé ($18) or 2005 Purisima Mountain Sauvignon Blanc ($20), or, if it’s cool enough out for a red to sound appealing, a bottle of 2005 Cuvée Le Bec, a delicious Rhône-style blend ($18). They won’t open the bottle for you, but they’ll loan you a corkscrew.

Three gazebos on grassy hills behind the tasting room provide some nicely latticed shade for the tables they shelter. Surrounded by olive and willow trees and pines, the picnic areas look out over a pond, vineyards and gently rolling hills. It’s a wonderful place to lay out your spread, and if the gazebos are all taken (not unlikely on a weekend), there are more tables under the trees.

Lafond Winery and Vineyards is only about 20 miles away as the bird flies, on the south side of the Santa Rita Hills wine loop, but it feels like a world away. The vistas here are longer than they are on the eastern side of the county; here it feels less languid, more coastal and, yes, cooler (which is a good thing, since there’s not much shade). Lafond’s picnic area is dreamy -- a field of grass rimmed with wildflowers that looks out over a drop down to the vineyards in a lovely valley.

But our favorite of all the picnic spots at Santa Barbara area wineries has to be Rusack, the boutique winery back on the other side of Highway 101 in drop-dead gorgeous Ballard Canyon. Inside the tasting room, check out the old picture of the gas station: It’s the same building you’re standing in, moved up from Santa Barbara and rebuilt on the vineyard by the previous owners.

Geoff Rusack and Alison Wrigley (yes, that Wrigley) Rusack bought the property in 1991, resurrecting an old winery that had fallen into disrepair. On their 48 acres they grow nine grape varieties, predominantly Syrah, Sangiovese, Petite Sirah, Grenache and Sauvignon Blanc. They’ve just run out of their perfect picnic wine -- the 2006 Syrah rosé -- so go for a bottle of the 2006 Sauvignon Blanc ($17) or the 2005 Santa Barbara County Syrah ($25).

Adjacent to the tasting room, there’s a spacious deck overlooking the vineyards, completely shaded by a spectacular stand of live oaks.

It’s tranquil and lovely, with a breathtaking view of the vines, heavy with fruit. Spread out your tablecloth, pull out the provisions, meet up with friends, uncork the bottle. Summer vacation might be over, but it goes on forever up here.

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(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBX)

A wine country picnic

Chilled roasted heirloom tomato soup

. . . .

Minted cucumber salad

. . . .

Roast leg of lamb with figs and olives

. . . .

Herbed flageolet and cannellini beans

. . . .

Black mission figs, peaches and Seckle pears

. . . .

Assorted California cheeses

. . . .

Country baguettes

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The A-list for winery picnics

THERE are more than 100 wineries in Santa Barbara County, and 27 of them have places to picnic; here’s a selection of the best. Wineries in the Santa Ynez Valley, Los Olivos and Foxen Canyon are best reached via Highway 154; wineries in the Santa Rita Hills are closer to Highway 101. Winery maps for Santa Barbara County are available in many bookstores in Santa Barbara, at the wineries and online at Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Assn. website, www.sbcountywines.com. The website has an interactive map indicating wineries with picnic facilities in addition to those listed here, though some of those are pretty rudimentary

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Our favorite winery picnic spots

Rusack Vineyards. The deck off the tasting room at this Ballard Canyon winery has to be one of the loveliest spots in this part of wine country. Big, old live oak trees give ample shade, and all the tables (top picture on the cover) have magnificent vineyard views. Rusack made its reputation on Bordeaux varieties, but is now known for its Syrahs and Pinots. On weekends, groups of eight-plus should call ahead. 1819 Ballard Canyon Road, Solvang; (805) 688-1278; www.rusack.com. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Lafond Winery and Vineyards. Vineyards, edged with wildflowers, come right up to a lush lawn set with picnic tables and shaded by pecan trees; the golden slopes of the Santa Rita Hills roll away in the distance. Lafond specializes in Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. Groups of 20 or more should call to reserve. 6855 Santa Rosa Road, Buellton; (805) 688-7921; www.lafondwinery.com. Open daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Beckmen Vineyards. Three pretty gazebos with picnic tables (pictured on the cover) look out over a pond bordered by willows and olive trees and the vineyards beyond; more tables, umbrella-shaded, are on the surrounding grass. Beckmen is known for its Rhône-style varietals and blends (see vineyard story, Page 8). Gazebos may be reserved (priority is given to wine club members); unreserved gazebo tables are available on a first-come-first-served basis. Groups of more than 10 must have a reservation. 2670 Ontiveros Road, Los Olivos; (805) 688-8664; www.beckmenvineyards.com. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Buttonwood Farm Winery and Vineyard. Named for the property’s shady sycamore trees (buttonwood is another name for sycamore or plane tree), Buttonwood Farm isn’t just a winery -- it also grows peaches, almonds and other crops. The picnic area is rustic and lovely. Behind the tasting room and next to an herb and vegetable garden, it feels like the Provençal or Italian countryside. Peaches, almonds and peach pie are sold at the farm stand. Tables are first-come-first-served, but sometimes they’ll let you reserve if you call ahead. 1500 Alamo Pintado Road, Solvang; (805) 715-1404 or (805) 688-3032; www.buttonwoodwinery.com. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

More wineries good for a picnic

Gainey Vineyard. Quiet and pretty, with a few picnic tables on a grassy area to the side of the winery and a view of vineyards that looks out to distant hills. The winery and a vineyard, planted to Bordeaux varieties, is on the eastern side of Santa Ynez Valley, near where Highways 154 and 246 meet. Gainey also has a vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills, where Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah are grown. 3950 E. Highway 246, Santa Ynez; (805) 688-0558; www.gaineyvineyard.com. Open daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Melville Winery. Cafe tables are scattered around the stately Spanish-style winery painted in Tuscan gold, where grape vines are planted right up to the building’s entrance and the Santa Rita Hills form a backdrop. In back, under the sycamore trees, are a few picnic tables. 5185 E. Highway 246, Lompoc; (805) 735-7030; www.melvillewinery.com. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Lincourt Vineyards. There’s a covered picnic pavilion next to the charming lemon-yellow farmhouse that serves as a tasting room (the property was once a dairy farm), and a couple of tables with umbrellas on the lawn. 1711 Alamo Pintado Road, Solvang; (805) 688-8554; www.lincourtwines.com. Open daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

-- Leslie Brenner

and Amy Scattergood

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Provisions along the way

Forgot the bread? Need to pick up a couple of cheeses or some ripe fruit? Here are our favorite spots for filling in the gaps on the way to your wine country picnic. Or maybe you forgot to cook? No worries; many of these shops offer everything you’ll need, including sandwiches, drinks -- even picnic baskets. Curiously, none of these spots had much in the way of pastries and sweets. But that’s OK. There’s nothing better than great fruit to wind up a winery picnic, and Lazy Acres Market has a great selection.

C’est Cheese. This small, dedicated cheese shop in the heart of downtown Santa Barbara offers a large, comprehensive selection. 825 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara; (805) 965-0318; www.cestcheese.com. Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday; noon to 6 p.m. Monday.

El Rancho Marketplace. Celebrating its 40-year anniversary this year, El Rancho is right on Highway 246 and most convenient to the wineries of Santa Ynez (and not far from Los Olivos and Ballard Canyon). It’s known for its sandwiches, and for good reason: The grilled tri-tip sandwich is fantastic, as are more conventional deli sandwiches. The hand-cut pastrami, made in-house, is surprisingly good with a fruit-bomb of a Syrah (but tell them to hold the cheese -- it doesn’t go!). Not the best spot for buying bread or fruit, (basic supermarket quality in both cases). But there’s a decent choice of cheeses and cold cuts and lots of local wines. 2886 Old Mission Drive, Solvang; (805) 688-4300; www.elranchomarket.com. Open daily (including holidays), 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Lazy Acres Market. A wonderful, full-service gourmet/health food supermarket just a quick drive north of downtown Santa Barbara. You can pick up anything you need here. In addition to a good selection of cheeses, bread, wonderful fruit and local wine, there’s Ducktrap smoked trout, Charlie Trotter citrus-cured smoked salmon, speck (smoked prosciutto) from Italy, La Quercia Americano prosciutto, good salami and cornichons. Look for a delicious condiment called “Ikra Island” -- it’s a spread of roasted eggplant, red peppers, onion, tomato and garlic; it’s great slathered on crusty bread. Even the premade sandwiches here are pretty good. 302 Meigs Road, Santa Barbara; (805) 564-4410; www.lazyacres.com. Open daily from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Metropulos. Excellent sandwiches, plus a good, small selection of cheeses, including Cowgirl Creamery from California, Neal’s Yard from England, Mimolette and Bucherondin from France, a three-milk Langhe Robiola from Italy, Manchego from Spain and lots of well-tended blues. Don’t miss the Pleasant Ridge Reserve, a raw cow’s-milk cheese from Wisconsin. The sandwiches are excellent. Also on offer: good French saucisson (sausage), bread from D’Angelo’s bakery, olives, peppers, Serrano ham, lomo embuchado, (Spanish- style cured pork loin) Fra’Mani salami, Molinari mortadella, and luscious-looking lime bars. Vignette sodas, not too sweet, made with Chardonnay or Pinot juice, are great for non-imbibers. Skip the salads; many are too sweet. Metropulos also sells beautiful picnic baskets. 216 E. Yanonali St., Santa Barbara; (805) 899-2300; www.metrofinefoods.com. Open 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday; 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday.

Panino. The patio’s often packed at lunchtime at this little sandwich shop right in the center of the village of Los Olivos. In addition to a long list of panino sandwiches, some conventional (the Italian combo), some not (the Panino Cobb), there’s also a box lunch -- any sandwich, half a harvest salad, a cookie and a bottle of water for $15. 2900 Alamo Pintado Ave., Los Olivos; (805) 688-9304. Open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Leslie Brenner

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Photo gallery online

To see pictures of wine country picnic spots and movable feasts, go to latimes.com/food.

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Chilled roasted heirloom tomato soup

Total time: 2 hours, 25 minutes, plus overnight chilling

Servings: 6

Note: The pistou is optional.

Pistou

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

2 cloves garlic, minced, or about 2 teaspoons

3 cups basil, washed and dried and loosely packed

1/8 cup Pecorino Romano, finely grated

1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon best-quality olive oil

In a food processor, process the salt, garlic, basil and cheese until well combined. Slowly add in the oil, and process only until mixed. Set aside. Makes about one-half cup.

Tomato soup

4 1/2 pounds assorted large ripe heirloom tomatoes, stemmed and halved crosswise

1 teaspoons kosher salt

6 sprigs fresh thyme

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

3 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled

1/2 medium red onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)

1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the tomatoes, cut side up, in a large roasting pan. Add the salt, thyme, pepper, garlic and onion, shaking the pan so that the ingredients settle around the tomatoes. Roast for 2 hours. After 1 hour and 15 minutes, pour off some of the liquid and reserve, leaving enough liquid to cover the bottom of the pan. Remove the tomatoes from the oven and allow to cool slightly.

2. Remove the thyme sprigs. Blend the tomatoes with both the reserved liquid and the liquid remaining in the pan in a blender in batches (or with an immersion blender). Pour the soup through a strainer, pressing firmly on the solids. Chill overnight. The next day, serve cool or at room temperature, with the optional pistou, a dollop of crème fraîche or torn basil leaves.

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Each serving: 64 calories; 3 grams protein; 14 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 1 gram fat; 0 saturated fat; 0 cholesterol; 389 mg. sodium.

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Minted cucumber salad

Total time: 30 minutes, plus overnight refrigeration

Servings: 6 to 8

3 large hothouse cucumbers, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch chunks

1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt

3/4 cup Greek yogurt

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Generous pinch freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

1/2 cup fresh mint leaves

1. Place the cucumber pieces into a large colander and toss with the salt. Let drain over a bowl or sink for 20 minutes. Rinse thoroughly in cold water, then drain and squeeze out any additional water with your hands and lightly pat dry using paper towels.

2. In a large bowl, combine the cucumbers with the yogurt, lime juice, pepper and dill. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Just before serving, tear the mint into pieces and stir into the salad.

Each of 6 servings: 45 calories; 3 grams protein; 5 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 2 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 4 mg. cholesterol; 101 mg. sodium.

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Herbed flageolet and cannellini beans

Total time: About 1 hour, plus 1 hour soaking time

Servings: 6 to 8

1 cup dried cannellini beans

1 cup dried flageolet beans

2 bay leaves

1 large shallot, minced

3 cloves garlic, minced

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves, minced

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

1. In a large pot, bring 2 quarts of water, the beans and the bay leaves to a boil. Turn off the heat and allow the beans to soak for an hour. Drain the beans, rinse under cool water and return them and the bay leaves to the pot. Cover with 2 quarts of fresh water and bring back to a boil. Simmer gently, uncovered, until the beans are tender but not mushy, about 1 hour. Add additional water as necessary to keep the beans covered while cooking.

2. Meanwhile, put the shallot, garlic, olive oil and rosemary in a small saucepan over low heat until the oil just begins to bubble around the edges. Immediately turn off the heat and allow to steep, off the heat, while the beans cook.

3. When the beans are done, drain them, discarding the bay leaves. Place the beans in a large bowl. Add the shallot-garlic-rosemary oil, salt and pepper while the beans are still warm and allow to cool, covered. When they’re cool, add the parsley. You can serve them immediately, or refrigerate overnight.

Each of 8 servings: 241 calories; 13 grams protein; 33 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams fiber; 7 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 0 cholesterol; 149 mg. sodium.

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Roast leg of lamb with figs and olives

Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus marinating time

Servings: 8

1 (4- to 5-pound) boned leg of lamb

6 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup cured black olives, pitted

1/2 cup Kalamata olives, pitted

1 cup (about 7) fresh Black Mission figs, tough stems removed

1/2 cup fresh rosemary leaves plus 6 large sprigs rosemary, divided

1/2 cup olive oil, plus additional for rubbing n the lamb

1. Spread the leg of lamb out on a cutting board so that the interior is facing up. With a sharp knife, remove any extra fat and tendons.

2. In a food processor, combine the garlic, salt, pepper, olives, figs, rosemary leaves and olive oil and pulse until coarsely chopped and combined. Spread the mixture over the inside of the lamb, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 2 hours.

3. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Remove the lamb from the refrigerator and let stand 30 minutes. Reassemble the leg by rolling it back up with the fig-olive mixture inside. Tie the leg securely with kitchen twine, tying at 3- to 4-inch intervals crosswise as well as twice lengthwise. Stuff back in any of the fig-olive mixture that has fallen out of the rolled leg. Rub the outside of the lamb with just enough olive oil to coat and sprinkle with salt to taste. Place the rosemary sprigs on the bottom of the roasting pan and then put the trussed leg on top of the rosemary.

4. Roast the lamb for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375 degrees. Continue to roast until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads 135 degrees for medium rare (or, if you prefer, 140-145 degrees for medium), checking after 1 hour, then every 15 minutes thereafter. Total cooking time will be about 1 hour for a 4-pound roast. Remove from the oven, tent with foil and allow to cool to room temperature. When cool, wrap tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Before serving, unwrap the lamb, remove string and cut the meat into thin slices.

Each serving: 457 calories; 39 grams protein; 11 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 28 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 126 mg. cholesterol; 433 mg. sodium.