Bargains in South Africa Make Up for the High Cost of Getting There

Standing atop wind-swept Table Mountain, gazing out over a spectacular vista of fog receding from Cape Town, South Africa, an American tourist was recently heard to confide: “You know, I really had no idea it would be this lovely.” Four years after the official death of the hated racist system known as apartheid and the inauguration of Nelson Mandela as president, more Americans like her are joining Europeans in discovering a multifaceted city and country that can offer visitors a superb vacation experience.

In addition to one of the most impressive natural settings in the world, the charms of this city of 800,000 are many: a Mediterranean-like climate (at its best December through February), varied and gracious architecture, good shopping, high-quality restaurants offering numerous cuisines, and fine museums and cultural attractions. Nearby are fabulous beaches, the breathtaking Cape of Good Hope Nature Preserve and dozens of world-class wineries. South Africans of all colors can be seen strolling, eating and enjoying themselves in many formerly whites-only areas of the city (though at the same time, many poor people are still stuck living in the squalid townships outside the city center).

And it all comes at prices that on a recent visit had me absolutely agape. Thanks to an exchange rate of just over 5 rand to the U.S. dollar, a perfectly clean and comfortable guest house can be booked for $30 per night (while doubles in good tourist hotels aren’t much more--$40 at downtown’s Metropole and $50 at the nearby Golden Tulip).

In the hilly, postcard-charming restored neighborhood of De Wanterkant, a marvelous meal of Cape Malay specialties at Cape Manna restaurant--including wine and dessert--can be enjoyed for less than $15 per person. A car can be rented for $32 a day with unlimited mileage, and you can attend a live music performance for less than $10. (On the other hand, certain purchases, such as books and records, are as pricey as in the States, or even more so.)

South Africa’s largest city, Johannesburg, is just as much of a bargain, though on the whole it doesn’t have quite as much to offer the tourist as Cape Town. It does, however, make a good jumping-off point for Kruger National Park, where you can see lots of big game for a fraction of the cost of many safaris. Instead of renting a car and driving the five hours from Johannesburg, you can fly to Kruger for $128 round-trip or take a bus for less than half that. Once there, adult admission is $4, and accommodations include campsites starting at $8 per couple per night, $16-a-night huts and more elaborate thatched bungalows for $65. Make sure, though, to reserve in advance: telephone 011-27-12-343-1991, fax 011-27-12-343-0905.

The least cheap and most difficult part of the equation remains actually getting to South Africa. South African Airways runs the only nonstop flights (14 hours from New York City to Johannesburg or Miami to Cape Town), but you can also go on a number of European airlines, with stopovers in London, Amsterdam or even Sofia, Bulgaria. Depending on the season, Africa specialist (and air consolidator) Magical Holidays, tel. (800) 228-2208, fax (212) 486-9751, can book flights from the West Coast, typically $1,095 round trip to Johannesburg and $1,295 to Cape Town.

SAA or airlines such as Virgin Atlantic also run occasional “grab-it-now” sales for less than $1,000 round trip. Remember that though these fares are costlier than those for a round-trip flight to most European locations, the prices you’ll pay after arrival in South Africa can more than make up for the difference.

Some South African cities, and Johannesburg in particular, have developed a reputation for high crime. This is due to local poverty and the fact that, in the absence of a police state, crime has simply reached levels normal in London, Miami or Los Angeles. As a New Yorker, I found Cape Town safe enough. If you keep your wits about you, you’re not necessarily worse off than in many American cities.

The country certainly still has its problems, with high unemployment and a big gap between haves and have-nots. But progress is slowly being made, and tourism does its part to help. As one local official commented: “It’s our No. 1 growth industry, and you guys are creating lots of jobs. We’re glad you’re here.”

For more information, contact the South African Tourism Board, tel. (800) 782-9772 or (310) 641-8444, fax (310) 641-5812.

This new column from Frommer, the longtime budget travel expert, appears weekly in the Travel section.