Located on Western Avenue between a storage...

Located on Western Avenue between a storage facility and a liquor store in Gardena is a large building with carved doors and a curved tile roof. This is Shilla, one of the more elegant of the many Korean restaurants in the South Bay.

Inside, this 10-year-old establishment welcomes guests with a koi fish pool, gilt-framed pictures, carved dragons and large booths. Be sure to request a booth, because that’s where you’ll find the pride of owner In Gon Kim--the golden metal grills set in the center of each table.

Though the long menu lists a brief translation of foods, manager Mia Woo will be glad to provide a full description of each dish. The most popular dinner items are those listed under the menu title of “Gui,” the barbecued specialties cooked at the table.

The waitress will come by and turn the meat; after that, you can pull it off anytime you desire. A favorite choice is bulgogi ($12.95), which is sliced, barbecued beef marinated in soy sauce, garlic, pepper, ginger and a touch of sugar. Another big seller is the dak bulgogi ($11.95), which features a boneless breast and thigh of chicken marinated in soy and garlic.

While the meat is cooking, the waitress will cover the table with small plates containing various hot and cold appetizers. Among them are marinated mushrooms, kimchi (the popular, highly seasoned cabbage snack), roasted sweet potatoes, seaweed soup and a Korean-style pancake.

The seafood listing includes shrimp tempura ($13.95), an interesting abalone porridge ($9.95), and a broiled corvina ($11.95) simply seasoned with lemon and pepper.

Lunchtime features broiled salmon ($7.95), and daeji bulgogi ($6.95), which is tender, marinated pork with red pepper. Lunch entrees come with kimchi, rice, salad and sauteed vegetables.

A good way to end your meal is with sikhae, a fermented rice drink with a refreshingly clear taste.

Shilla is at 16944 S. Western Ave., Gardena. Open 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. every day. Full bar. (310) 538-8848.