Chianti Becomes Vintage Again

Chianti Ristorante, opened on Melrose in 1938, has had its ups and downs. In its first period of cool, the dimly lit restaurant with the murals of elks and trees and hunters served the likes of Humphrey Bogart and W. C. Fields. Then came periods of indifference when, ignored by both critics and scenemakers, Chianti became a forgotten restaurant, a part of L.A. history. Every once in a while the place would be rediscovered, its old-fashioned solemnity hailed as chic.

In the early ‘80s, Chianti revived itself with a new young chef, Celestino Drago, and a hip, casual add-on space, Chianti Cucina. Lavish praise and boom business followed.

After Drago came another down period: tired food, rude service, hotter restaurants on the street. Acknowledging this, perhaps, the owners recently hired another new young chef, Fabio Flagiello, 26 who made a name for himself at Capri in our Venice.

Though many of Chianti’s classic dishes remain on Flagiello’s menu, regulars will know instantly that something new is going on. Consider, for instance, the osso buco di tacchino-- that’s turkey and it works amazingly well. Spaghetti tossed with bottarga (dried tuna roe) is a terrific dish that shows Flagiello is unafraid of strong, rustic flavors. Other new dishes include candy-shaped pasta filled with lobster and served with a lettuce cream sauce, and grilled polenta under a layer of mushrooms, baby artichokes and melted fontina cheese (a wonderful plate of mush).

While those are Ristorante dishes, Flagiello is also in charge of Cucina. But since so many other Italian restaurants these days have Cucina’s open-kitchen feel, the hip place right now might be the dark side of the operation, the booth- and banquette-filled Ristorante, just ripe for rediscovery.

Chianti Ristorante e Cucina, 7383 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 653-8333. Entrees $8.75 to $19.75.