From Chinese to French, Flavors of Mustard Rekindle Many Memories : Seasonings: Condiment has a long history of spicing up the simplest of foods.

Mustard is one of my favorite condiments, a romance going back to the days when deli clerks in my neighborhood in Manhattan smeared a spicy, semi-brown type similar to Gulden’s on franks and hot pastrami sandwiches. I have not seen, smelled or tasted that particular brown spicy mustard since. Not even from a Gulden’s jar.

I remember the old, stooped waiters at Ratner’s dairy restaurant. Their vests, bow-ties and white coats were covered with mustard markings, like so many khaki-colored pigeon droppings.

It didn’t do much for the appetite, but it reminded me to rush over to Katz’ Delicatessen on Houston Street, where one could buy homemade mustard and the best pastrami sandwiches in town.

As a teen-ager I was introduced to hot Chinese mustard, the kind that shoots quickly to the sinuses the way horseradish does. In those days, Chinese restaurants served tiny saucers filled with squirts of catsup and mustard for dipping egg rolls. The idea was to keep the catsup and mustard separated lest they turn a muddy red you wouldn’t use for paint, much less eat.

Then along came Dijon mustard and the world changed. By this time I had started cooking things from Dione Lucas’ Cordon Bleu Cooking School repertoire, in which French mustards (Dijon, Meaux, Orleans and Bordeaux) often figured. I particularly remember a mustard butter Lucas often used with herring or mackerel; it was made with both French Dijon and English hot mustards. I used it with all kinds of sausages, on sandwiches and in salad dressing. I put it on my grilled chicken, steak, lamb chops and pork chops. Everything and anything.

In France, the term for mustard (moutarde, from mout ardient, meaning piquant must) is reserved for mustard paste obtained only from brown seeds (Brassica juncea, of the type originating in Africa, India and China) and black seeds (Brassica nigra, which are also native to Europe and the Middle East). These seeds, unlike the white seeds (the most bitter and pungent of all), contain myronate and myrosin, the essences that give mustards their piquancy when crushed in the presence of water or vinegar. English mustard consists of a mixture of black and white mustard seeds ground into flour with turmeric added.

Mustard is one of the most ancient spices known to man. Early Egyptians chewed on seeds as a complement to meat, and Greeks appreciated its medicinal properties. It has been used for thousands of years in both Africa and China, where the seeds are grown, and Christ immortalized mustard seeds when he spoke of the power of faith.

The ancient Romans Pliny and Terence wrote that slaves crushed mustard seeds in mortars and turned it into a thick paste by adding wine vinegar, much as people do today. Roman conquests introduced mustard to Gaul in the 15th Century, where a mustard-making guild was instituted. Today it’s manufactured around the world with formulas differing from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Larousse Gastronomique reports that in the 18th Century a Dijon manufacturer called Naigeon prepared a strong, white mustard to coincide with the winter harvest.

In Bordeaux the mustard seed is mixed with unfermented grape must (mout); in Dijon, the capital of Burgundy, considered the greatest mustard-producing center in France, the seeds are mixed with verjuice (unriped green fruit juice) and white wine, and in Meaux the preparation is made with vinegar.

The word Cremona was first uttered in my memory by Celestino Drago, of Celestino Ristorante, who explained what mostarda di Cremona was all about. Italians translate mostarda di Cremona (named after the place in Lombardy where this mustard product derives) as mustard, but it looks more like chutney. Cremona is actually made from candied fruits macerated in a sauce that contains mustard and is generally served with grilled or roasted meats. Drago uses the mustard as a flavoring for pumpkin-filled tortellini. The Italian mustard can be purchased at most well-stocked Italian grocery stores.

Dutch and German mustards are a novelty not to be passed up. They need easing into, especially if you’re not accustomed to the bitter taste and drab color of some types. But eating Dutch Marne brand mustard, for instance, with jerooktewurst, a traditional Dutch sausage, was a treat of treats, introduced to me as a child by a neighbor who would bring over a care package of Dutch goodies, including smoked wurst with mustard, dark rye rojjeberood (a dense brown bread), and potato-meat croquettes called kroquette --a full meal in a deli basket.

Mustards come not only from jars. People actually concoct their own flavors and types to go with all manner of hot and cold meats, sandwiches, salad dressings and the like. One such mustard is Champagne mustard, now an old Dosti family standby thanks to a friend who once served it with baked ham at a Christmas party. She makes the mustard herself and often gives jars of it as gifts.

If you are thinking of making your own mustard, here is a rundown of characteristics of mustard, courtesy of the American Spice Assn.

Powdered mustard is often called flour, which is an FDA designation standard. The husk of the seed is removed by milling and the heat is finely ground. Mustard flour is usually a blend of Oriental brown and yellow seeds. Ground mustard is the product of ground seeds, husks and all. It is primarily used by the sausage industry because the husks contain a mucilaginous substance that acts as a good binding agent.

Pungency can only be released when triggered by enzyme action when water is added. Low acid liquids, such as milk and beer, also work well to trigger the enzyme. Acidic liquids, such as wine, vinegar and lemon juice are poor triggers but good preservatives; heat can also impede the flavor release. It’s best to let moistened mustard powder stand 10 minutes before adding it to any food preparation, including salad dressing.

Incidentally, any powdered mustard will produce the fire of a Chinese mustard if it is moistened to a thin paste then left to stand 10 minutes. However, it should be used immediately because pungency dissipates within a few hours unless vinegar or other acidic liquid is added. You can extend life of the product by keeping the mixture cold. A tablespoon of vinegar may be added per cup of mixed mustard to further lengthen the flavor life. Mustard will remain hot to the taste for several days if kept refrigerated.

Mustard also has the unique ability to emulsify liquids. Powdered mustard added sufficiently to salad dressing will hold the oil and vinegar together.

Whole seeds are used primarily in pickles, relishes and condiments where the appearance of whole seeds is necessary.

There are numerous uses for mustard, whether to enhance the taste of sausages, charcuterie, grilled meats, fish or poultry. It can be served as a dip for steak or can be addded to salad dressings for a flavor fillip. Macaroni and potato salads are especially palatable with the addition of mustard.

Organ meats such as liver and kidneys are enhanced by a touch of mustard in the cooking sauce. Vegetables such as asparagus, broccoli, cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables also take to mustard, especially when the mustard is the creamy type. Breaded meats and vegetables also are compatible with mustard.

Following are recipes for making your own mustards. Included are standbys such as picnic mustard, English mustard and fiery Chinese mustard. Among the Oriental mustards is a recipe from Benihana, a Japanese teppan restaurant chain. It’s ideal with grilled Japanese-style steaks and other meats, chicken or fish.

MUSTARD

2 tablespoons dry mustard

Few drops water

Combine mustard with enough water to make paste. Let stand 10 minutes to develop flavor.

Makes 2 tablespoons.

Note: Recipe may be doubled. Store in refrigerator.

CHAMPAGNE MUSTARD

2/3 cup white Champagne vinegar

2/3 cup dry mustard

3 eggs

3/4 cup sugar

Mix together vinegar and mustard. Beat eggs and sugar. Add egg and sugar mixture to mustard mixture in top of double boiler over boiling water, stirring until thick. Refrigerate. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

Note: Serve with baked ham.

FIERY MUSTARD SAUCE

1/2 cup dry mustard

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 cup water

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

Blend mustard and turmeric. Stir in water and vinegar until smooth. Makes 1/2 cup.

Note: Serve with sliced shrimp or pastry appetizer.

BENIHANA’S MAGIC MUSTARD SAUCE

1/4 cup dry mustard

1/4 cup water

2 tablespoons whipping cream

1/2 cup soy sauce

1 tablespoon crushed sesame seeds

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

Mix mustard and water in small mixing bowl until consistency of paste. Stir in cream and soy sauce and add crushed sesame seeds and lemon zest. Place in blender container and process at high speed 3 seconds. Makes 1 cup.

CHINESE MUSTARD

1/2 cup dry mustard

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 cup water or stale beer

Blend mustard with turmeric and gradually beat in water. Makes about 3/4 cup.

Note: Serve with fried shrimp, egg rolls or barbecued ribs.

TIGER MUSTARD

1/4 cup low-calorie mayonnaise

1/4 cup spicy prepared brown mustard

1/4 cup vinegar

3 tablespoons white horseradish

Combine mayonnaise, mustard, vinegar and horseradish. Mix thoroughly with fork until blended. Store in refrigerator. Makes about 1 cup.

Note: Serve with hot or cold lean roasted meat.

FLUFFY MUSTARD SAUCE

1/2 cup whipping cream

1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons prepared mustard

Salt, pepper

Whip cream. Fold in mayonnaise and mustard. Add salt and pepper to taste. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

Note: Serve with baked ham or ham loaf or use as dressing for tomato slices.

DIJON DIP

1 cup mayonnaise

1 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard

Mix mayonnaise, sour cream and mustard thoroughly. Makes about 2 cups.

Note: Serve as dip for raw vegetables.

PICNIC MUSTARD

1/2 cup dry mustard

1/2 cup vinegar

1 egg yolk

1/2 cup sugar

Place mustard in bowl and stir in enough vinegar so mustard is dampened throughout and smooth. Stir in remaining vinegar. Cover and let stand overnight.

Stir egg yolk in top of double boiler until smooth, then stir in sugar and mustard mixture. Cook over boiling water until smooth and thick as sour cream, stirring often.

Place double boiler-top in pan filled with cold water to immediately cool sauce. Spoon into jar. Cover and store in refrigerator. Makes 3/4 cup.

Note: Serve on franks, corned beef or ham sandwiches.

MUSTARD SAUCE

1 cup half and half

3 tablespoons dry mustard

2 tablespoons flour

1/2 cup sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

2 egg yolks

1/4 cup cider vinegar, heated

Scald 3/4 cup half and half in double boiler. Combine mustard, flour, sugar and salt with egg yolks and remaining 1/4 cup half and half. Pour scalded cream into mixture and return to double boiler.

Cook until thick, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and add heated vinegar. Cool. Store in refrigerator. Makes about 3/4 cup.

MUSTARD SAUCE TARRAGON

2 1/2 tablespoons dry mustard

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons oil

1 tablespoon vinegar

1/2 cup sour cream

2 teaspoons ground tarragon

Blend mustard, sugar and salt. Add oil and vinegar, stirring until blended. Beat vigorously, then fold in sour cream and tarragon. Makes about 1 cup.

Note: Serve with fish or shellfish.

MUSTARD CREAM

1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese

2 tablespoons prepared mustard

2 tablespoons honey

1 teaspoon grated orange zest

Soften cream cheese at room temperature. Combine mustard with honey and orange zest and beat into soft cream cheese until fluffy. Makes 1/2 cup.

DIONE LUCAS’ MUSTARD BUTTER

1 clove garlic, crushed

1/4 cup butter

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon English mustard

Few drops wine

Few drops vinegar

Few drops catsup

Salt, pepper

Rub bowl with garlic. Cream butter in bowl and add mustards, wine, vinegar and catsup. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until hardened. Makes about 1/4 cup.