Think Turkey : Turkey sausage and other new products can replace typically high-fat meats in a lower-fat diet.

The American penchant for foods with a perceived health benefit has elevated many items from their humble and traditional uses to new heights.

Turkey is one of them.

Once relegated to an obligatory appearance on holiday buffet tables, turkey, in its various forms--cut up parts, delicatessen meats, fresh and smoked sausage, kielbasa, ground meat and soon-to-be-released bacon-type breakfast strips--is showing up in all sorts of places. American per-capita consumption is up from 11.4 pounds in 1984 to 16.6 pounds in 1988, according to the National Turkey Federation.

Most of the attractiveness of turkey in recent years is its lower fat content and mild flavor--which makes it adaptable to a variety of seasonings and extends its compatibility with traditional and unusual ingredients alike.

But just how much nutrition is there in turkey?

Ounce for ounce, turkey compares favorably with beef and pork in terms of the amount of fat it contains, although dark meat tends to be slightly higher in fat than white.

A 3-ounce serving of cooked, skinless turkey breast has at least half the calories of lean beef or pork--about 129 calories--and a fraction of the total fat.

The same portion of beef or pork, depending upon the cut, can offer upwards of 12 grams of fat, while the turkey breast has only 2.6 grams total fat. Cholesterol content--thought to be of less concern to those monitoring heart health than other risk factors including total fat intake, family history and body mass index--is about the same for all forms of meat whether lean red or poultry.

Cholesterol figures for lean red meat and other poultry are 65 to 95 milligrams per 3 1/2-ounce serving and 69 to 89 milligrams for the same amount of turkey.

Still, turkey is considered an excellent choice for fat-watchers, provided that some caution is exercised, says Evelyn Tribole, a registered dietitian, who explained the importance of reading labels and comparing products for fat and cholesterol, instead of choosing foods for their “halo effect.”

“When people start eating foods that have a healthy reputation they can get too much,” said Tribole, media spokeswoman for the American Dietetic Assn. “Portion control is the key.”

Tribole pointed out that some people attach healthful qualities to certain foods--particularly those that appear to be inherently low in fat--then tend to overindulge on the items.

She explained, for example, that even though lean turkey breast meat is lower in fat than any other, processed by-products from other parts of the bird--such as frankfurters, bologna and salami--can be comparable to beef and pork cold cuts, containing up to 80% fat calories, depending upon the manufacturer. (The use of various parts of the bird including the skin and muscle are common practices, says the California Turkey Industry Board, which reports that turkey muscle meat is slightly higher in cholesterol content. That’s why turkey and red meat luncheon meats are similar in the amount of cholesterol they contain.)

To avoid an excessive fat intake from these products, Tribole offers some advice to fat-conscious consumers. She encourages consumers to read labels carefully and “ignore the stuff that says fat-free. “ Look instead, she said, for labels that display the grams of fat the product contains. And check to see what part of the animal the item is made from.

“When a label says 85% fat-free, it is referring to the weight of fat in a food, not the calories,” Tribole cautioned. To visualize this, she suggested that consumers keep in mind that fat is light and floats on water, although it still has twice the calories.

In general, she said, those looking for an overall diet that keeps with the 30% goal recommended by health organizations, limit grams of fat to 3 per every 100 calories eaten each day. That will be the equivalent of about 27% fat as calories range, which is good, she said.

“It’s (eating turkey and turkey products) a step in the right direction . . . but it’s not an end-all. Sausages still have fat, so watch portions.”

One way to safeguard against abuse is to use products cut from turkey breast meat, such as steaks, slices and tenderloins, whole breasts and breast portions, hickory-or honey-smoked turkey breast lunch meats and oven-roasted turkey breast.

Other items such as turkey ham, pastrami or frankfurters and other sausages are minimally fat foods compared with their pork and beef counterparts, but they do contain some fat. Again, portion control and balance are important, Tribole said.

A 3 1/2-ounce serving of turkey pastrami, for example, offers about 196 calories and 7 grams of fat, whereas the same amount of red meat pastrami has 354 calories and 30 grams of fat. Turkey salami, bologna and frankfurters provide about half as much fat and half as many calories as the red meat products, so feature them sparingly in recipes ranging from salads and sandwiches to main dish favorites.

Since turkey is such a delicate meat, it should be cooked just until done. Overcooking should be avoided. Poach turkey breast slices in a fat-free stock and season with fresh herbs and plenty of vegetables instead of relying on high-fat flavoring ingredients such as butter, oil or cheese.

Food styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane; Dinnerware by Fitz and Floyd.

TURKEY TOSTADA WITH CHIPOTLE SAUCE

1 cup reduced-calorie mayonnaise

3 to 4 canned chipotle chiles

3 tablespoons green onions

3 tablespoons oil

8 blue corn tortillas

8 turkey breast slices, grilled

8 cups shredded lettuce

1 cup diced tomato

1/2 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves

1 cup crumbled cotija cheese

Combine mayonnaise and chiles in food processor and process until chiles are chopped. Add green onions and process until mixed.

Heat 1 teaspoon oil in non-stick skillet and cook tortilla until crisp. Pat tortilla with paper towel to remove excess oil. Repeat with remaining oil and tortillas.

Spread 1 tablespoon chipotle mayonnaise on tortilla. Cut turkey breast into julienne slices. Arrange lettuce, turkey, tomato, cilantro and cheese on top of tortilla. Spoon 1 tablespoon mayonnaise over all and serve. Makes 8 servings.

TURKEY SKEWERS WITH MANGO SALSA

2 1/2 pounds turkey tenderloins

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon minced ginger root

1/3 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup rice vinegar

Salt, pepper

2 teaspoons sugar

Lime juice

Mango Salsa

Cut turkey into 2-inch slices lengthwise. Alternating from front to back, thread turkey slices on wood skewers. Set aside.

Combine garlic, ginger, soy sauce, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste and sugar in shallow baking dish. Place turkey in marinade and refrigerate, covered, 30 minutes or overnight.

Grill over hot coals 10 minutes per side or until done, brushing with marinade occasionally. Sprinkle with lime juice before serving. Serve with Mango Salsa. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

Mango Salsa

1 small ripe mango, diced

1/2 cup diced tomato

2 to 3 tablespoons minced red onion

Salt, pepper

Combine mango, tomato and onion in small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

GRILLED DEEP DISH PIZZA

1 pound loaf frozen bread dough

1/3 pound sweet turkey Italian sausage

1 1/2 cups shredded part-skim mozzarella cheese

2 to 3 tablespoons julienne cut onion

4 Roma tomatoes, thinly sliced

1/2 cup sliced mushrooms

1 small sweet red or purple pepper, cut into rings

1 small sweet yellow pepper, cut into rings

1 tablespoon mixed fresh herbs, basil, oregano and sage

Parmesan cheese

Salt, pepper

Allow frozen bread dough to thaw in refrigerator. Press into 10-inch skillet, sprayed with non-stick vegetable spray, fluting edge. Remove casings from sausage and crumble.

Top dough with half of mozzarella cheese, onion, tomatoes, mushrooms, peppers, sausage, remaining mozzarella cheese and herbs.

Using vegetable peeler, scrape about 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese over pizza. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Bake over medium-hot coals, at about 325 degrees, in covered grill, until crust is golden brown, 40 to 50 minutes. Let stand before cutting. Makes 4 servings.

TURKEY SUBMARINE SANDWICHES

1 1/2 pounds smoked turkey breast

1 medium avocado

1 clove garlic, minced

Salt, pepper

Juice of 1/2 lime

2 tablespoons reduced-calorie mayonnaise or salad dressing

2 (12-inch) long French baguettes

1 small red onion, cut into rings

1 large tomato, sliced

2 (1-ounce) slices part-skim mozzarella cheese

Lettuce leaves

Daikon sprouts or alfalfa sprouts

Have butcher slice turkey breast into paper-thin slices.

Mash together avocado, garlic, salt and pepper to taste, lime juice and mayonnaise in small bowl. Grill baguettes over hot coals.

Spread warm baguettes with avocado mixture. Top with onion slices, tomato, cheese, turkey, lettuce and sprouts. Makes 4 servings.

MARTIN YAN’S TOFU WITH MINCED TURKEY

1 tablespoon Shao Hsing wine or dry Sherry

2 teaspoons sesame oil

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 pound ground turkey

2 tablespoons oil

1/2 sweet red pepper, diced

1 pound firm tofu, drained and cut into 3/4-inch cubes

1/4 cup chicken broth

1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

Combine wine, oil, cornstarch and salt in small bowl. Add turkey and stir to coat. Set aside 30 minutes.

Heat wok or wide skillet over high heat. Add oil, swirling to coat sides. Add turkey and stir-fry 2 minutes or until browned and crumbly. Add sweet red pepper and stir-fry 30 seconds longer. Add tofu, broth, soy sauce and hoisin sauce. Stir gently and cook 3 minutes. Transfer to serving platter. Makes 6 servings.

PIZZERIA SALAD

1 (10-ounce) package tagliarini pasta

Italian Dressing

2 cups turkey ham chunks

1 cup chopped tomato

1 cup sliced mushrooms

1 cup sliced cubed part-skim mozzarella cheese

1/2 cup sliced black olives

1/4 cup sliced green onions

Cook pasta according to package directions. Pour Italian Dressing over warm pasta. Toss in turkey ham, tomato, mushrooms, cheese, olives and green onions. Serve immediately, or chill, if desired. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Italian Dressing

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

1/3 cup oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon prepared mustard

1/2 teaspoon Italian herb seasoning

1/2 teaspoon seasoned salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Combine vinegar, oil, garlic, sugar, mustard, herb seasoning, seasoning salt and pepper. Mix well.

CARIBBEAN TURKEY SALAD WITH ORANGE VINAIGRETTE

1 pound honey-roasted turkey breast

8 cups torn mixed greens

4 green onions, finely chopped

1 sweet red pepper, cut into rings

1 cup cubed pineapple

1/2 cup orange juice

1/4 cup oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 cup dried banana chips, optional

Cut turkey into thin strips and set aside. Combine greens, green onions, red pepper and pineapple. Divide and arrange on individual salad plates.

Combine orange juice, oil, vinegar, cumin, garlic powder and pepper in skillet. Heat dressing over medium heat to boiling. Add turkey strips and heat and stir 5 minutes. Spoon hot dressing and turkey evenly over salads just before serving. Sprinkle with banana chips. Makes 4 servings.

ISLAND TURKEY-RICE SALAD

1 pound honey-roasted turkey breast

2 cups cooked rice, chilled

1 medium tomato, chopped

1/2 cup diagonally cut celery

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/4 cup chopped salted peanuts

1/3 cup oil

2 tablespoons lime juice

2 teaspoons curry powder

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1/2 teaspoon onion or garlic salt

1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

Cut turkey into 1/2-inch cubes. Place in large bowl with rice, tomato, celery and raisins. Stir together oil, lime juice, curry powder, mustard, onion salt and hot pepper sauce.

Pour over turkey mixture and mix well. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour or overnight. Stir peanuts into salad just before serving. Makes 6 servings.